Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 32

Research
Costume Pattern Drafts
The Morning Coat

by Kevin L. Seligman

From: Leggatl, W.E. and T.W. Hodgkinson. The "Climax" System
for Cutting Gentlemen's Garments. 4th ed. (London: Minister and Co.,
1920 ? ), pp. 14-17; 79. (See introduction in Fall, 1980 issue, p. 21.)

For several years the Morning Coat (Fig. 1) has been increasing in
popularity with the well-dressed man, until today it may be seen on
many occasions to which one might consider the Frock sacred. It is in
fact somewhat surprising to note how successful has been the bid of
the Morning Coat for favor at functions where formerly it would have
been tabooed.
The underlying influence which has been at work in order to effect
this change is the ease with which variation of style may be affected
while the main characteristics of the garment are retained. The difference in the length of turn, the width of the lapel, the run of the skirt,
the style of the cuffs, the length of the waist, the degree of closeness
in the fit and the appearance of the garment under the various combinations--all these items have appealed to the man who studies his
personal appearance, have gained his approbation to an extent which
cannot be denied, and the result is that today the Morning Coat occupies a position as a sartorial achievement little dreamt of a decade
ago.
In cutting this garment it is imperative to take into consideration the
wishes of the man who has to wear the coat, for considerable diversity
of opinion exists as to the degree of tightness which may be infused
into the waist section.
The outstanding factors in the successful production of a stylish
Morning Coat are the complete harmony of all the seams, a symmetrical arrangement of collar and turns with the style of fronts, and a due
regard to the width of sleeves. Trifling variations in these details are
the features which at times mar the appearance of the best coats, and
it is in dealing with these that the artistic temperament of the cutter
shows to best advantage.
Speaking generally, Morning Coats are made from Vicuna, Llama
or Cashmere coatings in black, blue or grey, in addition to which there
is now on the market a large variety of fancy coatings, which are frequently used when a suit from the same material is required.

MEASUREMENTS
Natural waist
Fashion waist
Full length
Cross chesl..
Front of scye

16Y2"
17 Y2"
37"
7Y2"
11 y,"
Seat measure

USITI Winter, 1980

Front shoulder
Over shoulder
Depth of scye
Waist measure
Approximate chest
18"

11 3f.o"
16 Y2"
9"
16"
18"

Figure 1

Instructions for Drafting (Figure 2)
Rule line B W, the natural waist length (16Y2).
Square the line W M, by B W.
Mark L from W, 3~".
Rule a line from B, through L, to 2.
Make 2 from B, the fashion waist length (17 Y2 ").
K from B, the depth of scye (9).
Square the lines K, C, and 2-10, by B W.
Line B K L 2 is the actual back-seam.
Mark F from K, the front of scye and four seams (12V2").
Place E from K, half the front of scye and 1 y," (7 V. ").

Theatre Design & Technology

27



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980

Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 1
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 2
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 3
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 5
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1980 - 6
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