Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1981 - 35

When the collar is padded it should be basted on one forepart at
least to get the exact length, commencing from the back-seam. Ease
the collar three-quarters of an inch into the gorge, basting so as to
take the collar up an ordinary seam; this done, hold the coat up over
the hand at the shoulder, mark the step and the length, after which
cover it and finish in the regular way.

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The Dress Coat Collar (Figure 3)
In cUlling low rolls, such as those for Dress and Frock Coats, but
more particularly the former, it is necessary to get a very round sewing-on edge at 13 because this is the factor which determines the position of the roll and controls the front. In comparing this collar with
the previous diagram it will be seen that the sewing-on edge of the
collar from 3, 4, 13 to the collar-end is much more round than the
sewing-on edge of Dia. 22 (Figure 1).
The object of this is to pull the lapel over to form the turn. Wherever
the break of the roll is to turn to below the breast, the line should run
through 13. Square C D of forepart to 13 and G from C on the forepart
1 Y2" and make 4 1 /2" from S; then lay the straight edge on G and 4
and make a short mark at 13. Having found point 13, decide where
the break is to turn to at the waist and rule through 13 to 2.
Measure the distance 4 is from point 13 and add the back width to
it, then measure from 13 to 2 the length of the collar. Make 6 from 2
half the distance 4 is from 5 (3/4). Draw the crease edge of collar by
a slight curve from 6 near 5 to 13.
Lay the square on line 13 6 and square to 3 and 1 _The stand from
6 to 3 is 1 'h" and the fall from 6 to 1 is 2" or whatever may be the
fashionable width of fall, as sometimes collars are worn narrow on the
fall and at other limes moderately deep .... The collar-end at D
should be made to correspond with the lapel-end, generally half an
inch narrower. The fall edge is then drawn from 1 to collar-end at D_
Complete the collar by drawing the stand from 3 through 4 to 13.

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The Dress Coat Roll (Figure 4 [Diagram 67])
When the Dress Coat is made with a roll collar the same method is
followed as in the previous diagram, only instead of the gorge terminating at D it is made by a slight curve to reach the breast line. The

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Theatre Design & Technology

33
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1981
