Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983 - 32

BOOK REVIEWS
Exploring Costume History 15001900 by Valerie Cumming. orth Pomfret,
Vermont: David and Charles, 1981. ISB
0-7134-1829-X, 96 pp., ill., 515.95 cloth.
Valerie Cumming gives teachers of costume history a textbook for guiding re earchoriented students to independently appraise
and grow in awareness of the vast storehouses of knowledge available to them. Exploring CostulI/e History is written to provide information on how to begin researching by first discussing-in Part I-the
sources and types of information available,
how to assess that information, and then
select and present a final project paper. Part
II offers a generalized outline of costume
history and suggested topics to inve tigate,
covering 1500-1900. The history is by no
means complete but is to be used to give
students a starting point for further study.
Unfortunately, many of the specific
sources recommended for further data and
research are located in Great Britain. Having studied there, I know Cumming's sources
are well documented, for the museums, libraries and costume archives are very complete and have staffs willing to assist in investigating topics. There is a wealth of information available here in the United States,
however, that this book doesn't touch.
Hence, while the general information on how
to begin a study is useful for both beginning
and experienced students of costume, and the
bibliography lists many source books (most
are available in the Unites States in libraries
or bookstores), Exploring CosllllI/e HistOlY
needs a reference addendum from American
museums and costume archives to truly aid
students studying costume history.
Janet H. Scarlata
orthern Kentucky niversity

Bags and Purses by Vanda Foster. London: B. T. Bat ford Ltd., di lributed by
Drama Book Specialists (Publi her ), New
York. 1981" ISBN 0- 13-l-3772-3, 96 pp., illu,.. 13.95 cloth.
Shoes

by June Swan. London: B. T. Batsford Ltd., distributed by Drama Book Specialist> (Publishers), ew York, 1982. ISB
O-'13-l-09-l2-8, 96 pp., illus., 513.95 clOlh.

Bags and Purses and Shoes are twO useful
nell books in the Costume Accessories series
publi,hed by B. T. Batsford and distributed
by Drama Book Specialists (Publishers). The
30

series is under the general editorship of Dr.
Aileen Ribiero. Hats and Gloves are two
other title soon to be relea ed in this series.
These small books have been well thought
out; their functionally planned format is a
boon to all working costumers. The table of
contents is in a simple chronological order
with brief descriptions of the changing styles.
In many cases a perusal of the contents page
of these books will suffice and a timeconsuming trek through the indexes might
not be necessary. The student of costume
history will appreciate the dating, descripti\"e
information about the ani fact, and the location of its source contained in the list of illustrations, while supplemental information
accompanies the actual illustration. For the
most part, the photographs of extant purses,
bags, shoes and the photographic reproductions of engravings, paintings and fashion illustrations are of u fficient clarity to be useful to the working costumer. Further enhancement is provided by a useful, though
limited, glossary of materials and decoratil"e
techniques. The bibliography is appropriate
to the scope of the book, including foreign
and English language books. In addition, it
lists easily obtained standard costume references and specialized tomes and trade journals from the last century as well as last year.
For the traveling costumer it provides a Ii t
of costume collections with accessories al'ailable for study.
Reviewing these aspects of a book may
seem somewhat superficial when discussing
a reference book, but it is not. Typically, a
costumer does not purchase a copy of Bags
and Purses for casual reading, but instead
needs a ready reference of accurate information and sufficient scope to be used in the
problem solving that arises out of the design
process or in the shop. The books do fill
these needs. Their meager size suggests. at
first, dabbling in the subject. On closer inI"estigation the reader will find careful allenlion to both the historic ol"en"iew and the
details of the subject. Foster and Swann
ha\"e prol'ided concrete facts abou.! a limited
number of accessorie used from the early
el'enteenth century to the present. Unlike
some encyclopedia, this series addresses the
most typically used bags, purses and shoes.
They are, for the mo t part, the reticules,
chatelaines, carriage bags and pocket books
we find, and puzzle over, every time we costume a period play. The factually detailed
text is usually in the near vicinity of the supponing illustration, a quality to be admired
in a reference book"
Considering the problems of writing.
cditing and publishing costume reference

Thealre Design & Technology/ SITT/Fall 1983

Editor: L. Garren

books today, I am omewhat o\"erwhelmed
with the excellence of Ihese lIl"O mall books.
There i an amazing amount of carefully
hosen and edited information offered to the
reader in a pleasing and useful format. I
think mo t COSlUmers will not go wrong by
adding the e relatively inexpensive accessory
reference books to lheir library sheil"es.
Leon I. Brauner
Indiana Unil"ersity

=

Leslie Hurry, A Painter for tht
Stage, edited by Daniel W. Ladell. Slrat·
ford, Ontario: Beacon Herald Fine Printing
Dil'ision, 1982. 36 pp., ill., 59.00 paper.

One of the highlights of the 1982 Stratford Fe til"al was a memorial exhibition of
painting and theatrical designs by British
artisl Leslie Hurry (1909-1978), presented
jointly by the Stratford Festival and the Gallery Stratford in Stratford, Ontario. The ex·
hibition con isted of paintings, photograph~
and theatrical designs, as well as many of tht
actual costumes and properties designed b)
Hurry for ballet, opera and the theatre and
was the most extensive collection of his work
ever exhibited. As part of the exhibition, the
Gallery Strat ford and Stratford Festival com·
piled and published a beautiful exhibition
catalog, Leslie Huny: A Pailller for the
Stage, that is an excellent addilion to tht
literalllre of design history and conveys the
rich and varied texture of Hurry's life and
work.
Hurry was born in London and from his
early childhood was preoccupied by art. He
allended an school and won a scholarship to
the Royal Academy of Painting where he
tudied for three years. In 1931 he left school
and began an arduous decade of di cover)
that would dee him del'elop a highly personal. imrospecti\"e manner of painting. IYlistically close 10 surreali m.
In 19-11, an exhibilion of Hurry' paintings was presenled al the Redfern Gallery in
London" Thi exhibit attracted the allemion
of Sir Robert Helpman, who commissioned
Hurry to design sels and costumes for his
ballet I'ersion of Hall/let to be presented b)
lhe Sadler's \Veils Ballet in 19-12. Hurry's
wing and drop selting. which combined I'iolent, nightmare images with fanciful baroque
architecture and an expressionistic color
palellc of red, amber, and green, establi hed
him as a major theatrical designer. Throughout the rest of his life, Hurry Ilorked as both
a paimer and a designer, designing nearly six-



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983

Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983 - 1
Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983 - 2
Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983 - 3
Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983 - Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983 - 5
Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983 - 6
Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983 - 7
Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1983 - 8
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