Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1984 - 43

The next year produced Slage Costume
Techniques by Joy Spanabel Emery. In her
preface the author acknowledges her book
to be aimed at the new phase through which
the costume design industry is passing. This
change is reflected in the separation of roles
of the costumer and the costume designer.
In earlier periods, when one person not only
made design decisions but also construction
decisions, there was less need for a document describing how 10 analyze the designer's sketch for construction specifications 10
determine the best methods for realizing the
costume in its final form. Today such a need
exists and Emery's book concerns itself with
that need by providing instruction in the
arts and crafts necessary 10 become an effective costumer.
The book is divided into three sections,
beginning with an overview of the theatrical
costumer's job.
ext it investigates equipping the costume shop, basic costume construction techniques, fabrics and measurements. The second section of the book is
devoted entirely 10 basic pallern drafting
and fitting; and the third section, called
"The Costumers' Crafts and Techniques,"
includes discussion of fabric modification,
padding and corseting, hairstyles, millinery,
costume accessories, and production organization. It also offers a valuable mailing
Ii t of sources for costume supplies and a
bibliography at the end of each chapter.
While parts one and three are thought
provoking and informative it is the middle
section describing pallern drafting and fitting which is best developed. The second
section thoroughly instructs the reader in
how to make pallerns for theatrical costumes through the three traditional methods;
altering commercial pallerns, draping, and
drafting or flat pallern making. Based on
modern styles, it gives step by step les ons in
drafting basic bodices for women and jackets for men, and a variety of sleeves, skirts
and lacks. These lessons are followed by a
discussion of how 10 alter this information
to accommodate period styles. This section
also tre ses the importance of the costume
filling 10 assure accuracy of tailoring. Unfortunately the pholOgraphs which accompany the text do not lend credibility to the
procedures which are so well defined. Many
of the costume pictured both in black and
white and color reveal poorly filled garment . Nevertheless, the techniques are
thoroughly tested and well described.
5wge Cosl/ll/le Techlliques is a gift from
Joy Spanabel Emery 10 the costumers and
aspiring costumers of the theatre. It unselfi hly reveals 10 its readers important information collected by the author during an
impressively active career.
L
Sylvia J. Hillyard
niversity of Georgia

Scene Design, Stage Lighting,
Sound, Costume and Makeup: A
Scenographic Approach by Willard
Bellman. New York: Harper and Row, Inc.,
1983. ISBN 0-06-040612-7, xiv+474 pp.,
ill., 534.95 cloth.
This is Willard Bellman's updated and
expanded second edition of Scenography
alld Swge Technology, 1977. For Bellman,
the title change "reflects an adjustment and
clarification of the fundameI1lal approach
to scenography." The concept of scenography and an appreciation of just what it is to
be a scenographer are basic 10 an understanding of Bellman's approach. He acknowledges that the term "scenography"
has several possible meanings; the crucial
issue is not a semantic one, however. It is
one of artistic unity. Bellman observes in
the preface to the current edition that this
triving for artistic unity is a never-ending
struggle of all serious theatre artists:
"The present text, then deals directly
with the problems of the theatrical artist whatever his title (designer, scenographer, art director) and with the communications that must happen if the
theatre is to produce a work that is more
than the sum of its parts-an art work."
To accomplish this Bellman has broadened
the scope of his current text 10 include the
areas of costume, makeup, and sound.
These important aspects of technical production have been added to the work to make
the text comprehensive-one "intentionally
limited" to the presentation of material
necessary for courses of an "introduclOry"
level.
As in the first edition, Bellman relies
heavily on illustrations 10 reinforce the text
visually. The quality and usefulness of these
illustrations alone are worth the price of the
tex!. Additionally, the sixteen-page color insert in the center of the text is particularly
helpful and instructive. I early as effective
is Bellman's u e of simple line drawings,
construction and production photos, and illustrative charts.
Designed for use in two-semester or
three-quarter-sequence courses, the text is
organized into ten parts of forty chapters.
The ten are "A Working Aesthetic of Scenography," "The Physical Theatre," "Organization and Safety," "Scenery," "Properties," "Color in the Theatre," "Costume
and Makeup," "Lighting," "Sound," and
"Scenic Projection." Together these provide that comprehensive, thought-provoking
experience so necessary in an introduclOry
technical production cour e.
Some parts of the text are, of course,
more substaI1live and, consequently, more
valuable than others. "A Working Aesthetic of Scenography," divided into two

chapters titled "Theatre as Art" and "The
Scenographic Process," constitutes a particularly effective introduction 10 the philosophy underlying the scenographer's work.
The nine chapters in the section on lighting
provide thorough and practical instruction.
The "Color in the Theatre" section, composed of three chapters titled "Color and
Scenography," "Physics and Physiology of
Color," and "Scene Painting," is singularly
understandable and informative. Also
worth noting is the 500-word glossary which
functions as a handy reference 10 many standard technical and theatrical terms. A less
impressive yet still useful bibliography is
also included.
Unquestionably, this text will well serve
the needs of both teachers and students of
technical production. Bellman has clearly
served a beneficial end by updating and expanding his focus in the current tex!. By incorporating on an introduclOry level the
areas of costume, makeup and sound, and
by updating and expanding the other areas,
Bellman has given an insightful picture of
the IOtal scope of scenography. He has
shown that even though the term scenographer is relatively new and widely misunderstood, it has validity nonetheless. The sum
of Bellman's work is indeed greater than the
individual parts. He has given us a valuable
and timely tex!.
C
Donald J. J ung
CastlelOn State College

Variety Entertainment and Outdoor Amusements: A Reference
Guide by Don B. Wilmeth. Westport,
Connecticut: Greenwood Press, 1982. ISB
0-313-21455-7, xiii + 242 pp., 535.00 cloth.
"To provide brief historical overviews
of major forms of American variety eI1lertainment and outdoor amusements," "10
evaluate briefly the available literature,"
and 10 provide' 'a checklist of major sources
di cussed in each chapter" i the way Don
Wilmeth describe the objectives of his
book, and that is a good brief description of
the COI1leI1ls. Focusing on American popular entertainment, the book cOI1lains chapters on Outdoor Amusements, the Circus,
Wild West Exhibitions, P.T. Barnum and
Dime Museums, Medicine Shows, Minstrel
Show, Variety/Vaudeville, Burlesque and
the Striptease, the I\lusical Re\'ue and Early
I\lusical Theatre, Stage Magic, and Floating
Palaces and Traveling TeI1l Theatres. Each
chapter is divided iI1lo three basic sections:
"Historical Summary," in which a brief but
fact-filled outline of the developmeI1l of
that particular aspect of entertainment is
preseI1led; "Survey of Sources," which pro\'ides an e\'aluative di cussion of thc major

cOlllilllled

011

page 53 ...

USITT /Spring 198-i/Theatre Design & Technology

-i I



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1984

Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1984 - 1
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Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1984 - Contents
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1977summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1977spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1976winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1976fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1976summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1976spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1975winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1975fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1975summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1975spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1974Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1974Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1974May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1974Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1973Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1973Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1973May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1973Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1972Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1972Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1972May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1972Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1971Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1971Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1971May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1971Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1970Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1970Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1970May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1970Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1969Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1969Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1969May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1969Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1967Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1967Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1967May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1967Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1965Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1965Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1965May
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