Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1988 - 31

R--E--S--E--A--R--C--H

Costume Pattern Drafts
Kevin Seligman, Editor
EVENING BODICE-1896 by Lynda Bender

The following pattern draft for an evening bodice is from original pattern drafts of ladies' wear from 1896 issues of Harper
Bazaar in Ms. Bender's private collection. The drafts are presented in scale with c011Struction notes from the magazine. - K.S.
his evening bodice was originally
published in Harper's Bazaar on
January 4, 1896. The sheer bodice is
mounted on a velvet lining that shapes
the body and extends below the waist,
which is marked. The curved center
front seam helps create the popular
mono bosom look reinforced by the
corset worn beneath. The bodice itself
is of a simple shape, gathered to create
fullness. The sleeves are full and extend only to the elbO\y, typical of late
1890s evening wear, although the

T

model is shown in full-length gloves.
The sleeve is dropped below the shoulder, showing a small area of skin and
trimmed with passemenrerie at the
top and bottom edge. The from of the
bodice is also trimmed in this manner
and a shaped attached belt of passementerie-covered velvet finishes the
waist. Two bias panels, for which no
pattern is given, rise from the belt
front and back and finish with a knot
on the shoulder.

The original construction notes are as follows:
Govvn vvith Moire Skirt and Velvet Bodice

he skirt of this gown is of light
green and yellow shot moire, the
bodice of golden brown velvet with
bead and spangle passementerie of metallic tints. The pattern for the bodice
is given. It is fastened in the back. Cut
the lining from Figures 23, 25, 26, and
27, join the halves of the from and take
up the dans. Join the two side fonus to
the backs and provide them with
hooks and eyes. Cut the outside front
and backs from Figures 24 and 2 ,
gather them at the middle to " mount
on the lining and join from and backs.
Cut the sleeve lining from Figure 30
and puff from Figure 31. Gather the
lower edge of the puff and the top between the x's. Mount on the lining,
finish the lower edge with a band and
sew the sleeves in. Trim the neck and
the sleeve bands with passementerie
as illustrated. The sleeves hang below
the shoulder in 18th-century fashion.
Bretelles made of bias velvet eight
inches wide come up from the belt
frOnt and back and meet in a knot on
the shoulder. The wide velvet belt, Figure 29, is stiffened with whalebone
and covered with passememerie.*

T

Bust 38/1, Waist 25/1,4 1/2 yards velvet for bodice

o'

Fig H

\
x "

Fig 30

.............

Fig 29

Fig 31

Fig
I

15

Fig 28

I
I

I

~
TD&T

*

SPRING 19BB

29



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1988

Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1988 - 1
Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1988 - 2
Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1988 - 3
Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1988 - Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1988 - 5
Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 1988 - 6
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