Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 1991 - 39

Mark the placement of the button holes
onto the wrong side of the overflap,
starting Y2 inch from the top and Y2 inch
from the bottom. Space the remaining
button hole markings equally between
these two points: from one inch to 1Y2
inches apart. The length of the button
holes is determined by rhe size of rhe
chosen button. Alrhough machine-made
key or coar button' holes are preferable,
regular button:.holes are acceptable.
Stitch rhe burron holes. Cur open the
burron holes. Align rhe overflap and the
underflap and mark the placement of rhe
buttons. Hand sew shank burrons OntO
the underflap. Repear this process for rhe
other foot.

Figure 1. Materials and Cost
1. General Supplies (Note: Many of the materials needed for the project may
already be found in existing costume shop stock.)
Brown Paper
Tracing Paper
Straight Pins
Thread

Tape Measure
Dressmaker's Tracing Paper
Hand Sewing Needles

Scissors
Sewing Machine
Dual Weight
Shoes from Stock

2. Specific Project Supplies

Material

Spats

Gaiters

Muslin
Canvas
"Show Fabric"
1 inch Elastic
1/2-inch buttons

1/4 yards
1/2 yard
1/2 yard
1/3 yard

8

1/3
3/4
3/4
1/3

yard
yard
yard
yard
16

3. Additional Supplies (Note: Depending upon the design and the usage,
other materials may be required.)

Step 7B: Velcro and Flat
Buttons

Material

Gaiters

3 yards
1/4 yard
1/3 yard

#70 Cording:
Contrasting Fabric:
Velcro

3 yards
1/3 yard
1/2 yard

Spats
$8

Approximate Cost

Gaiters
$11

Spats

Choose a color of velcro thar is as close
to the show fabric as is possible. Pin rhe
hook side of the velcro onto the outside
of the underflap ar a disrance of Y2 inch
from the finished vertical edge. Machine
sew the velcro in place. On rhe overflap,
mark burron posirions approximately
one inch apart. Hand-sew flar buttons
into place. Pin rhe soft side of rhe velcro
onto rhe inside of the overflap ar a
disrance of Y2 inch from rhe finished
vertical edge. Hand-sew rhe velcro in
place, using heavy dury burton and
carper rhread. For appearance, be careful
rhar rhe stirches do nor go rhrough to
rhe ourside of rhe marerial.

Figure 2. Patterns

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SCALE:
EAOH SQUARE = I INCH

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INSIDE OF LEG

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Step 8: Instep Strap
Using the measurement raken from rhe
mock-up plus one inch, cur a piece of
elastic. Ar a point Y2 inch from rhe end,
pin rhe elasric to the lining side of rhe
spar or gairer. Machine sew ir in place in
a triangular partern. Pin and sritch the
remaining elasric to rhe other side in rhe
same manner. Repear this process for rhe
orher foot.The spats or gaiters are now
complere.
As wirh accessories and derails in
general, rhe sryle of rhe foorwear is
extremely important to rhe toral period
"look" of every cosrume design. The
addition of spars and gairers ro
contemporary shoes can contribute to
the consisrency and rhe accuracy of rhe
reproducrion of Victorian cosrume. This
modern-day oprion is rruly "a small price
to pay for period foorwear."

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Howard Vincent Kuru is a dmper and ~
freelance costume designer for professionaL, ~
regionaL and educatiollaL t!Jeatre 011 the ~
East Coast.
TD&T

1991 SUMMER

37
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 1991
