Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 67

New York. Mainbocher opened his salon on East
Fifty-Seventh Street, and Elsa Schiaparelli embarked on a cross-country lecture tour." I fail to
see how a cross country lecture tour illustrates
relocating to New York.
The heart of the book, Chapter Four, "Pattern illustrations," is a visual documentary of
fashion for the decade, without comment, arranged by various types of clothing including costumes, needlework, and toys. While there are
some noticeable gaps of illustrations for "Vests"
and "Skirts," in particular, overall each category
is well represented by examples spanning each
year ofthe decade and pattern illustrations from a
variety of pattem companies.
I am a little alarmed by the prices quoted
in the "Price Guide." They all seem highly inflated and are not an accurate reflection of
current market prices. There are a few references conspicuously missing from his bibliography for a study of this kind, namely Carol
Ann Dickson's Ph.D. dissertation, "Patterns for
Garments: AHistory of the Paper Garment Pattern Industry in America to 1976," Ohio State
University, Columbus, 1976; Lois Loiselle's
Dress Pattern HistolJI Research, 1936; and
Margaret Walsh's article, "The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the
Woman's Dress Pattern Industry," The Journal
ofAmerican History, Vol. 66, 1979, pp. 299315.
The most serious and disturbing aspect of
the book is the lack of proper credit given to
Betty Williams for the research she conducted
and which the author publishes without
proper credit to her in the book. All listings of
dating for pattern companies on page 5, and
dates and numbering for valious pattern companies in "Appendix: Dating," pages 180-1,
were researched and compiled by Betty WillianlS and are directly lifted from the company
books in the Betty Williams Archives.
It is good to see that there is an interest in
the subject matter of the commercial paper
pattern, especially as a valuable and often overlooked primaly resource material in the snldy
of dress. But the te;.,.1 which accompanies such
a profusely illustrated work on the subject
should be accurately reported, appropriately
documented, and properly credited to those
individuals who have acnlally researched the
material being related in the text.
Reviewed by Kevin L. Seligman,
Professor of Theatre Arts,
Northern Illinois University

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999

Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 1
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 2
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 3
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 5
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 6
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 7
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 8
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 9
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 10
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