Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 68

Cutting

Cutting for All!

for <\Il!

The SartorialArts, Related
Crafts, and the Commercial Pattern: A Bibliographic Reference Guide
for Designers, Technicians and Historians
By Ke\-in Seligman. Carbondale. IL:
Southern Illinois lniversity Press.
1996. ISB\ 0-8093-2006-1. 352
pages. 36 illustrations. S3-1.95
(softbound)

Anrone \rho makes patterns understands the difficulty of reproducing a
garment from a photograph, painting or other representation. One has to
guess at the location of seams, hO\r the grain runs, the proportion of fullness. and \\'hat tlle fablic does where the canlera or artist's eye did not go.
Costumers, from community theaters to Broad\rar, rely on published pattern sources for the information an artistic rendering cannot
give. To save time, ensure authenticity, and open one's eyes to the myriad
possibilities of ho\r to cut a nineteenth cennu)' [rock coat, for instance,
these sources hare no equal.
Kerin Seligman has anlassed a phenomenal bibliography of these
patterning materials: 2.-26 entries in all. including journal articles. The
mainstars of cosnIme shops are here: titles by \oral1 \Vaugh. Janet
Arnold, Max Tilke, and ~1rl Kohler. But so are less-well-known patterning references including two of my favorites\atalie Bray's Dress Pat/em Designing: Tbe Basic
Principle a/Cut and Fit (better known in England),
and Donald McCulln's How to .lJake Your Own Sell'ing Pat/ems. Some of the earliest works acknowledge the mathematical basis of patterning. for
e:\ample Christopher Serrana's Tbe Geomet/:)' ojtbe
Art o/Cutting u'om 1619 and Henry Wampen's 186-1
volume, Antbropomet/]': or Geomet/], 0/ tbe Human Figure.

The bibliographic entries are sorted into chapters. Chapter T\ro lists books chronologically by publication date. In the subsequent chapters-Costume
and Dance, Dolls, Footwear, FoLk and 'iational
Dress, Millinery. Wigmaking and Hair, Commercial
Pattern Companies, Periodicals and Catalogs, Professional Journals and Journal Articles-entries are
listed alphabetically by author or by title. In tllis sensible organization a note that the entries are not
cross-listed would be helphil.
Seligman provides four inde:\es: Author, Title,
Subject and Chronological. In the first three the entries are cross-referenced. In the chronological inde:\ citations are organized by century, meaning both
contemporaneous \wrks and those that provide patterns for garments of that era. For e:\anlple, there are
no contemporaneous patterning sources for 12001299 but the listings there, such as .lJedieual Costume in England and France published in 1939,
contain patterns for thirteenth cennu'y-style gal'
ments. Seligman neglects to note that only the Costume and Dance, Journal Articles and Doll categories
of citations are included in this last inde:\.
In Chapter One, before the bibliographic entries proper. Seligman surreys the history of published flat pattern ources. He begins \rith JUall de
Alcega's well-knO\rll Tailor's Pat/em Book 1589 and
ends \rith the falniliar home se\\ing patterns of como.
pallies such a ,"ogue and Simplicitr, Period illustrations gire the reader a look at pattern shapes and
cutting layouts. The methods of late eighteenth and
earlv nineteenth century tailors might surprise pattern makers today. Tailors had stopped using set patterns but had not yet adopted the measuring tape.
66

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999

Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 1
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 2
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 3
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 1999 - 5
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1967Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1967Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1967May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1967Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1965Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1965Oct
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