Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 2009 - 37

however, outside those areas, in the more traditional tribal
villages, beards are an important symbol of manhood. Karzai
began growing his beard soon after his appointment. His saltand-pepper beard suggests wisdom to people who believe the
venerability of a man increases as his beard whitens (dupree
1973, 239).
Karzai completes his ensemble with a karakul hat. This
style of headwear is traditionally worn by Panjsher highlanders,
a region in northeastern Afghanistan populated by the ethnic
Tajiks. The fashion for karakul hats spread throughout Afghanistan, especially into urban areas. because of the high price of
karakul, they were not an item all Afghanis could afford. They
were popular among the educated in the days prior to the Soviet invasion (Sheridan 2002). The hats continue to be a symbol of prestige and are worn by tribal elders and government
officials. The hat has experienced a resurgence in popularity
with middle-aged men in Kabul since Karzai began wearing it in
2001 (Haven 2002).
Pelts of the karakul, or Persian lamb, are one of Afghanistan's main exports. The karakul lambs are prized for their soft,
curly pelts. because of their small size, the entire pelt of one
lamb is needed to produce one hat (Haven 2002). The lambs
come in a variety of colors: brown, black, grey, and white. Hats
made from golden brown, white, and black pelts are the most
prized (Givhan 2002). Karzai owns a variety of the brimless,
fez-like hats that range in color from light grey to black.
Although karakul hats are common in Afghanistan, it was
this element of clothing that created controversy in other areas
of the world, especially among animal rights activists. The Indian animal rights group People for Animals and the Humane
Society of the United States railed against Karzai for wearing a

hat whose manufacture involves the slaughter of a lamb (either
soon after its birth or from the forced abortion or slaughter of
the ewe to obtain the fetus). Many Afghanis believe that the best
quality pelts come from these fetal lambs. because the fetus is
never exposed to the air or sun, the pelt has a smooth texture
with tight curls and a desirable sheen (Haven 2002).
Some lambs are born naturally and then slaughtered one
or two days later while their pelts remain tightly curled. In an
extensive study of the durrani Pashtun nomadic shepherds who
raise karakul sheep in northern Afghanistan, it was noted that
85% of ewes give birth to their lambs. A few male lambs were
kept for breeding purposes, but most were killed for their pelts
(Matsui 1980, 121).
Hamid Karzai predominately wears karakul hats; however, there are instances when he chooses to wear a traditional
Pashtun lungi, or turban. Karzai wore lungi before becoming
interim leader and continues to wear them occasionally, often
when he is speaking in or visiting heavily Pashtun-populated
areas. lungi are long lengths of cloth up to six yards long
with some even longer. The cloth can be wrapped around
the head in a variety of ways. Each region in Afghanistan and
each ethnic group has a distinct style of wrapping the lungi
that distinguishes them from one another. In all regions care
is taken to leave the forehead exposed for Muslim prayers
(Fairservis 1971, 71). Pashtuns favor a style that involves
wrapping the lungi around the head and leaving a long tail, or
shamlah, hanging over one shoulder. Karzai's lungi in figure
5 is wrapped in a similar manner. The shamlah of his lungi
can just be seen over his right shoulder. The other end has
been pulled through the wrapped folds so that a short portion
sticks straight up at the top of his head. His lungi is made of

Figure 5. Karzai wearing
a turban wrapped in the
Kandahar style.
Photo credit: Department of
Defense /SPC Michael Zuk

2009

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 2009