Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 2012 - 63

wheels and dials on the machinery, and watching, mesmerized,
as fabric transformed into a botanical garden full of shapes.
Warren Brand greeted me at the door, casually dressed
in an Hawaiian shirt, shorts, and sandals. Very gregarious and
personable, he is clearly in his element in sales. "I do my thing
here. I call myself the flower man, and I like that. I like dealing
with people, I like being able to dress comfortably, and my staff
is key. I couldn't do it alone, and they know it." M&S Schmalberg has held on tenaciously in New York's garment district for
close to one hundred years. Over time, the business has moved
from what Brand described as "a little dungeon" at the basement level to quarters with a chic window-lit showroom. The
business has a website and a Facebook page, but its products
are virtually unchanged. The flowers are still stamped out using the same antique metal molds and assembled by hand with
wires and glue. These flowers adorn hats, shoes, and dresses for both the fashion and bridal industries. They have also
turned up on giant turtles for Disney and they have carpeted the
stage of the Metropolitan Opera.
The basic process starts with fabric being stretched across
large wooden frames. The edges of the frames are covered in
short spikes, which grip the fabric and hold it taut. Workers apply starch to both sides of the fabric-leather and velvet are only
starched on the back. Next, many layers of fabric are stacked,
right sides up, and stapled together. The "clicker" stamps out
the shapes like a very forceful cookie cutter. Schmalberg has
been using this hydraulic die cutter since 1980; however, many
of the older dies, the ones with handles, date from the era when
all shapes were pounded out by hand with a mallet. The next
step for the petals is the hot press machine, which molds the
cut fabric. Different treatments can create immense varieties
of textures and forms. The machines look like something from
the mind of H.G. Wells: solid curving metal forms ornamented
with tubing and dials. Fabric is put into the head molds three or
four layers at time. Heat and pressure then turn the flat fabric
into organically curved or veined shapes. Leather is more difficult to mold and has to be done one piece at a time.
Next the workers in the front assembly area separate the
stacks of petals into individual layers and string them onto
wires, which often have beads at the center mimicking a cluster
of flower stamens. I watched one woman apply a small dollop of glue from a tub to the wire before adding the petals,
measuring the perfect amount with her pinky finger each time.
The workers alternate the layers to stagger the petals in just the
right way, snipping out flaws in the petals as they find snags.
They all are clearly performing their own quality control as they
go, and their pace is efficient but not hurried. One worker, Clio
Young, custom shapes flowers by hand. He is a skilled sculptor
with an arsenal of metal tools, which he heats over a gas camping stove sitting on his workstation. He curls edges of petals
using small tongs, or uses custom pleating techniques. Near
his station hang completed flowers that resemble elegant pompoms, each tendril of silk individually spiraled. Other more undulating shapes are created with small mallet-like forms used

as a combination of iron and anvil.
M&S Schmalberg is a true family business. The current
owners are Warren Brand and his sister Debbie. They took the
business over from their father, Harold, who inherited it from
his uncles. The uncles, Morris and Sam Schmalberg, started
their business just after the First World War. Harold Brand lost
his mother, father, and three siblings to the Holocaust. After
the war, an American soldier found Harold and helped him get
in touch with his uncle Morris in New York. There, this frail
seventeen-year-old helped his uncles with their business, eventually taking it over after they passed away. The Brand siblings
helped their father during summers and holidays, not always
by choice. "My father would throw me out of bed," Warren
recalled, "and bring me down here." After going to college,
where he majored in business, Brand immediately went to
work full time for his father. Far sooner than he anticipated, he
was running the business on his own. In 1981, just four years
after he finished college, the business became very busy. "It was
a real flower phenomenon time, everything was flowers, and
we couldn't keep up with the demand." Two of the temporary
workers hired to keep up with the boom got into a violent argument one day. Harold Brand tried to break them up and make
them take it outside. In the scuffle, was shot in the neck. "I
happened to go out for lunch that day, which was so rare, but
God has a plan, I guess," Warren said with a shrug. His father
survived, but a bullet remains lodged by his spine and "he's in
pain 24/7." The young Warren appealed to his sister Debbie for
help. She was a special education teacher in Florida at the time,
but came back to New York to help out. The current arrangement is that Debbie is a fifty-percent partner, but only works
part time. She devotes a lot of her time to service at a Holocaust Memorial Center on Long Island. Recently, Warren's son
Adam has joined the business, adding another generation to the
chain. As a child, Adam visited frequently, playing around making "absolutely terrible flowers" or pitching in at busy times
with "actually helpful" simple tasks. Today, Adam is responsible
for the growth in Schmalberg's online presence.
Brand estimates that roughly a quarter of their business is
for the entertainment industry. Fashion and bridal designers are
Schmalberg's main clients. Business varies depending on the
time of year-hat decorations for the Kentucky Derby, bridal
hairpieces and gowns, new looks for New York's Fashion Week.
The company still does very large orders, but not as often as
in the past. Sometimes Schmalberg just does the samples, and
ruefully assumes they are mass duplicated overseas. Like many
other aspects of the garment business, on-site attention and
convenience can't compete with cheaper labor.
When customers comes in to have flowers made, the first
step is usually a visual reference. Sometimes they bring a sketch,
sometimes a photograph, or sometimes they start with the collection of samples in the showroom. Usually the look of the
flower is the most important factor. As Brand said, "Even though
all we do is make flowers and leaves, we are not exactly horticulturally correct." For instance, a shopper came in for poppies, to

spring

2012

theatre design

& technology

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Spring 2012

Contents
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1974May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1974Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1973Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1973Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1973May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1973Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1972Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1972Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1972May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1972Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1971Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1971Oct
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1971Feb
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1970Feb
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1969Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1968May
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966May
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1966Feb
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1965Dec
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1965Oct
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/hickmanbrady/tdt_1965May
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