Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2012 - 54

G. Mustaches are often inadvertently applied crooked
or off center. One way to ensure correct placement is to create an "under-the-nose notch." Fold the mustache in half-
net backing to net backing-being sure to line up mustache
ends exactly! Carefully cut a small notch in the top center
of the mustache netting at the angle shown. This creates a
notch in the netting that is used to center the piece under
the nose during application.
H. Next, hold the piece up to the actor's face, being
sure to align notch with center of nose. Is it the correct size?
Does the mustache look too long for the face (often the case
when using male hair pieces on women)? The edges of a
basic mustache should end close to the edges of the actor's
mouth. If it looks too long, determine how much needs to
come off by placing your thumb over the excess on one side.
Keeping your thumb or finger over the excess, carefully cut
off one end of the mustache using regular scissors as shown,
being sure to follow the same angle as the original. Fold the
mustache in half (make sure it is exactly in half), and then
cut the other side to match the first. Trimming in stages (a
little at a time until you get it right) is the safe way to go if
you are uncertain.
i. Comparison of mustaches: top view shows a mustache before preparation, and the bottom view shows the
same mustache after preparation. The bottom view looks
more natural. These techniques can be used on all types of
mustaches.

Lesson #2 gLuing a FuLL Face Beard
SupplieS Needed
* Full face beard (handmade and lace-backed human
hair);
* Spirit gum (Kryolan Mastix is recommended);
* Cotton velvet powder puff;
* Scissors if needed.
The actor's face should be clean-shaven, clean (if needed,
apply witch hazel to remove oils), and dry. Test the actor for
sensitivity to spirit gum by applying a small amount of it to the
inside of the wrist and waiting fifteen minutes. If your actor
exhibits sensitivity to the product, you could try other brands,
but most likely you will have to avoid the use of spirit gum altogether. (There are waterproof products available from most
makeup supply companies. Toupee tape is also an option. Unfortunately, neither of these methods holds the hairpiece to
the face as dependably as spirit gum.)
When applying facial hair, always follow the principle
of Less Is More, especially regarding the use of spirit gum
adhesive. This means that you should apply only the amount
needed and only where it is needed-no more! Using spirit
gum that is tacky will aid in the application process (pour out
a small amount in a different container and expose to air for a
few minutes prior to use).
a. First try the beard on for size by holding it up to the
actor's face (no spirit gum yet). Begin with the chin (be sure
to center it) and then wrap it up on both sides, as Ryan is
52

theatre design

& technology

summer 2012

demonstrating on our model, Sarah Montgomery. If the actor
is wearing a wig, any excess beard length can be tucked under the wig. If the actor is not wearing a wig, the beard should
end approximately an 1/8-inch past the actor's hairline on
each side-just enough overlap so the actor's hair can be
combed over the ends of the beard. If the beard is more than
an 1/8-inch past the hairline on each side with the actor's
mouth open (keep in mind that singers may need a longer
beard to accommodate the mouth opening widely), then trim
the "front of ears" ends of the beard using the same approach
as for mustaches in Lesson #1H-marking the extra length
on one side with your finger and cutting off the excess following the same angle as the original. Carefully fold the beard
in half, and then cut the other side to match. (Trimming in
stages-a little at a time, then rechecking-is the safest way
to go if you are uncertain.)
B. When you know the size is right, it is time to glue. Always begin with the chin area. Apply a small amount of tacky
spirit gum just under the lip curving down on both sides in a
crescent moon shape.

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