Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013 - 47
Prepping dresses at the University of Connecticut, Depot Campus.
At left, June Gaeke steams a dress.
Stains were another problem. Many of the dresses had
100-year old stains, especially at the neckline and in the underarm areas. "The biggest problem," Crow explained, "was
removing stains from the silk garments. You can't send them
to the dry cleaners, and you can't use spot remover because
[those processes] fade the fabric." But she was able to creatively disguise or cover many of the stains. For dresses with
stains in the armpits, Crow and her team strategically positioned the sleeves when mounting the garments in a way that
hid the discolored underarm areas. For dresses with stained
necklines, they added antique lace and ribbon that covered the
soiled areas. Other techniques to hide imperfections included
the clever placement of antique shawls over damaged shoulders as well as the strategic positioning of mannequins so that
many of the flaws were hidden from view.
Happily, many of the white cotton undergarments selected
for the exhibit, such as petticoats, chemises, and corset covers,
were sturdy enough to be soaked overnight in a bath filled with
warm water and 20 Mule Team Borax, a very mild bleaching
agent. Once soaked, the cotton undergarments were gently
rinsed and laid flat to dry on towels. A warm iron and pressing cloth were used to carefully remove the wrinkles. This
process worked beautifully, and many of the garments looked
new again.
Not surprisingly, almost every dress in the collection needed to be repaired in one manner or another. Fortunately, the
majority of the garments had only minor needs, such as missing
buttons or broken seams. It was difficult to find large quantities
of identical buttons with the appropriate antique looks. Often,
a single garment needed up to twenty such buttons. Fortunately,
Pacific Trimmings, a notions store in Manhattan's Fashion District, was able to supply a wide variety of reproduction buttons. Buttons were sewn on with white, black, or gray thread.
Whenever possible, natural colored and black linen thread
was used. Colored threads were avoided to lessen the risk of
dye from the thread transferring onto the textiles of the garments. Some of the bodices had damage around the buttons
and were too fragile to withstand stitching. In cases like these,
Crow's team mounted the button-less bodices onto dress
forms before pinning the buttons into place with silk pins.
s u m m e r 2013
theatre design
& technology
45
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013
Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013 - 1
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013 - 2
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013 - 3
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013 - Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013 - 5
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013 - 6
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013 - 7
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2013 - 8
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