Theatre Design & Technology - Winter 2013 - 68

Kastakatakam, meaning "hand ornaments," are tied immediately below the bangles to secure the sleeve at the wrist and to keep
the bangles in place. The ornament is carved in a curved shape to
follow the wrist, about three inches wide and two inches tall at the
center circle. It is decorated with metallic foil, red wool felt, red and
green plastic jewels, and green tassels. Four wool pompoms or tassels anchor the corners. Red cotton cord is used to tie them on.
Vellinakam or nakham are fingernails. Long polished silvertoned tips are added to the left hand after completing the other
preparations. They serve to lengthen the fingers and draw attention
to the mudras (hand gestures) which are a critical part of the storytelling. Performers' personal rings may also be worn.
A small amount of bright pink or gold powder can be rubbed
between the palms before entering the stage to bring attention to the
hands. Henna is also used for this and to highlight the edges of the feet.
n

Headdress
*Female
Strivesham (female) characters are veiled rather than in ornate
headdress. Their head coverings include several items.
The headband, chutti thunittuni, is eight and a half inches
by one-half inch of black cotton and red wool over cotton tape with
rows of silver toned beads.
The cap, kontakettu, has a black cotton base with an oval
top and straight cut/hemmed band gathered into the crown. The
left side has a stuffed cylinder projecting up and to the side. This is
decorated with a thick fringe of multicolored yarns, and is used to

examples of headdress items: above
and right, kurunira, and below,
chuttittuni.

theatre design

& technology

w i n t e r 2013

support the veil. The cap splits center back and ties to fit the individual actor's head.
Katila are eggplant-shaped earrings worn by female characters. One and three-quarter inches by three and three-quarter
inches, they tie onto the head above and below the jawline. They are
decorated with foil, plastic gems, and silver beads.
Veils are finished lengths of rectangular yardage or scarves,
about one yard by two yards long, enough to fall past the waist on
both sides. They are used as an expressive tool by the performer
of female roles. A gilded fabric such as tissue lamé is preferred.
Sometimes a length of cotton twill or bias is sewn to the center edge
of the veil to help anchor it on the forehead.
Kurunira, a decorative black cotton head band, covered by
narrow silver cylinders and dangling diamond shaped spangles, is
put on over the base cap to meld the cap and makeup lines, as well
as to bring sparkle to the facial area. The eyebrows of Kathakali performers are a particularly expressive tool, so bringing focus to this
area of the face is important. A second narrow band of silver bead
strands holds both the veil and the ties from the earrings (katila) in
place over the hat base (kontakettu).
Mookkuthi, a small nose ring, provides the final touch for
female Kathakali characters.
*Male
After a male character's makeup is complete and the costume in
place, the performer begins the process of dressing the head. First
a length of black cotton is folded on the bias and used to wrap the
head from hairline to nape, providing a means to absorb sweat
and begin padding to make the headdress more comfortable and
stable. The head cloth is called netti (forehead) nada (any piece of
long cloth a few inches wide).
The paper or plastic cutti are tied to the face over the head
wrap and secured to the face with spirit gum or rice paste.
Chevippuvu are ear ornaments worn by all male characters.
These ornately carved concave wooden discs are set above the ears
and tied to the head with cotton cord. Another black cotton cloth,
also netti nada, is wrapped over the ties to secure them and to pad
the head for the crown.
A shaped headband, chuttittuni, of red wool backed with
cotton and decorated with rice paste is tied on to bridge the space
between makeup and headdress. Some characters add cutti poove
(white knobs) or a devotional naman bindi decoration to this
headband.
There is a variety of large ornamental headdresses for characters in Kathakali. The types and shapes are part of a codified system of identification, and all of them bring focus to the performer's
face as well as balancing the volume of the costume and providing a visual contrast to the angular positioning of the performer's
limbs. They are carved of one or more pieces of wood and ornately
decorated with metallic foil, gemstones, and metallic beads. Originally pith (from peacock quills) or rice paste was used to build up
white detail, and wings of a particular beetle provided a shimmering green texture in some areas. Both now are replaced with plastic materials. Because of the complexity of the headdress, each one
is stored in a protective heavy cotton bag. Putting on the headdress

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