Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 58

16TH

BIENNIAL TECH EXPO
DISPLAY AND CATALOG

Figure 2 - Dye test strips and cotton mops after dyeing in madder root

cesses all over the world and the fiber community is at
the fore of this work. It's time for costume designers and
technicians to learn the same skills.
In order to consider whether or not natural dyes are
a viable alternative to our traditional synthetics, a research assistant and I conducted a series of side-by-side
dyes with Rit and natural extracts or whole dyestuffs.
This research was supported with expertise from a colleague in the chemistry department. The goal is not to
find natural dyes that will mimic the Rit dyes perfectly,
but rather to compare hues and brilliance. The first of
these experiments featured Rit cocoa brown and madder root extract (Figure 1). On close examination, one
can see the similarity in hue and intensity on the natural
fibers; the synthetic fibers yielded a wider variety of hue
from the madder than the Rit. In addition to the dye test
strips, I used madder root to dye cotton mops to be used
as Sideshow Bob's wig in Mr. Burns: a post-electric play
at Gonzaga University, fall 2016 (Figure 2). The scrubby,
moisture-absorbing cotton used in deck mops yielded
a saturated, dulled magenta, as the dye strips indicated.
58

theatre design

& technology

S u m m e r   2 0 1 7

Results showed that within each individual natural
dye, there is a wider variety of hues based on the type
of fiber being dyed. Of course, wider variety also means
greater variability of color. There is an element of serendipity in natural dyeing that must be embraced; however, with practice and experimentation, consistency is
also possible, as demonstrated by the test samples where
we sought to recreate our results.
The process for dyeing naturally is not that dissimilar
from dyeing synthetically:
1. Weigh the dry fabric.
2. Scour the fabric with either soap or soda ash.
3. After scouring, the fabric must be mordanted. The
mordant used should be determined by the fiber being dyed. A mordant as a separate step allows you to
customize your dye to the fiber; the choice of mordant
can affect the washfastness and the final color. Mordants include aluminum acetate, aluminum potassium sulfate, or tannin dyes. As with synthetic dyeing,
mordants require their own safety considerations; for
a full discussion of their benefits and concerns, see



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017

Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - Cover1
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - Cover2
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 1
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 2
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - Contents
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 4
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 5
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 6
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 7
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 8
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 9
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Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 11
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Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 18
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 19
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 20
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - 21
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Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - Cover3
Theatre Design & Technology - Summer 2017 - Cover4
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