Impressions - October 2018 - 39

Remember, using the smallest recommended
needle makes the smallest penetration hole,
and this should be the goal.
For very small lettering or fine detail
that is sewn with a 60-weight thread, a
#65/9 or #70/10 works best. For a thick,
12-weight thread - such as wool or cotton blends - a larger #100/16 needle
is the best choice. As the thread weight
increases in number, the best needle size
decreases, and vice versa.
When embroidering on a structured
cap, the center seam can be a challenge.
The twill fabric often is stiff, made worse
by a sizing that is added to the fabric to
help the cap keep its shape.Also, a buckram
lining and the extra center-seam thickness
all require extra skill to keep the design
registered correctly.
Use a sharp-point needle, not a ballpoint
needle, on caps. Beyond that, the thread
size determines needle size. One trick is
to apply steam to the cap's center seam.
This removes the sizing and softens the
interlining, which helps tame the cap.
Remember, using the smallest recommended needle makes the smallest
penetration hole, and this should be the
goal.The smaller the holes in the fabric,
the better the result will be. Sometimes
using a large-eye needle allows you to go
down a size. Some embroiderers swear
by titanium needles for their strength or
non-stick embedded needles for reducing
friction when sewing caps.
3.What's the best way to embroider performancewear? Which backing
to use; how to keep it from puckering;
hooping the slippery, stretchy stuff known
as performancewear - there are tons of
questions on how to master embroidering
this fabric. According to Cotton Incorporated, nine out of 10 consumers say
they wear performancewear for activities
other than exercise alone. It's a multibillion-dollar industry sector that's
showing no signs of slowing down.
"Think light" should be the rule
of thumb in approaching customers'
troubles with performancewear. Avoid
high-stitch-count designs and keep density to a minimum. Try a light underlay
to help stabilize and fill.
Remember, the nature of performancewear is that it stretches with the wearer, so
the more stitches you add, the more you
impede its ability to stretch.Therein lies

Needle sizes should be
changed to run some specialty
threads properly.This small
design was stitched using
75-weight polyester and a
#60/8 needle.

Choosing a backing
that is too heavy for
performancewear will produce
the "badge effect," where
backing is visible around
the sewout.

the challenge, so consider push-and-pull
compensation when working with the
fabrics used in these garments.
Avoid hooping performancewear garments too tightly.Adjust the hoop so that
it barely holds the garment minus the

lightweight backing.When it is correctly
hooped, there should be minimal stretch.
Using the smallest-possible hoop promotes
this, while also minimizing the garment's
potential for movement while stitching.
OCT./NOV. 2018

P.39



Impressions - October 2018

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Impressions - October 2018

Impressions - October 2018
Contents
First Impressions
From the Show Director
Overheard
First Look
Scene at ISS
On Design
The New ‘Everyday’ Wear
Breakdown: Digital DTG Printing on Cotton/Modal
Score More with Shipping
The Mixed-Media Advantage
Shop Talk
Embroidery Production
Screen Printing Graphics & Design
Direct-To-Garment
Ad Index/Classifieds
Impressions - October 2018 - Intro
Impressions - October 2018 - CT1
Impressions - October 2018 - CT2
Impressions - October 2018 - Impressions - October 2018
Impressions - October 2018 - Cover2
Impressions - October 2018 - 1
Impressions - October 2018 - Contents
Impressions - October 2018 - 3
Impressions - October 2018 - 4
Impressions - October 2018 - 5
Impressions - October 2018 - First Impressions
Impressions - October 2018 - 7
Impressions - October 2018 - From the Show Director
Impressions - October 2018 - 9
Impressions - October 2018 - Overheard
Impressions - October 2018 - 11
Impressions - October 2018 - 12
Impressions - October 2018 - 13
Impressions - October 2018 - 13a
Impressions - October 2018 - 13b
Impressions - October 2018 - First Look
Impressions - October 2018 - 15
Impressions - October 2018 - Scene at ISS
Impressions - October 2018 - 17
Impressions - October 2018 - On Design
Impressions - October 2018 - 19
Impressions - October 2018 - The New ‘Everyday’ Wear
Impressions - October 2018 - 21
Impressions - October 2018 - 22
Impressions - October 2018 - 23
Impressions - October 2018 - Breakdown: Digital DTG Printing on Cotton/Modal
Impressions - October 2018 - 25
Impressions - October 2018 - Score More with Shipping
Impressions - October 2018 - 27
Impressions - October 2018 - 28
Impressions - October 2018 - 29
Impressions - October 2018 - The Mixed-Media Advantage
Impressions - October 2018 - 31
Impressions - October 2018 - 32
Impressions - October 2018 - 33
Impressions - October 2018 - 34
Impressions - October 2018 - 35
Impressions - October 2018 - Shop Talk
Impressions - October 2018 - 37
Impressions - October 2018 - Embroidery Production
Impressions - October 2018 - 39
Impressions - October 2018 - 40
Impressions - October 2018 - Screen Printing Graphics & Design
Impressions - October 2018 - 42
Impressions - October 2018 - 43
Impressions - October 2018 - Direct-To-Garment
Impressions - October 2018 - 45
Impressions - October 2018 - 46
Impressions - October 2018 - Ad Index/Classifieds
Impressions - October 2018 - 48
Impressions - October 2018 - Cover3
Impressions - October 2018 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/DigitalDecorator_2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20210809
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/teamactivewear_2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202105
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/imp_0421_digital
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20210102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_fall2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nxtbook_bhtest/impwessons
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20201011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202009
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2020fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20200607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202005
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202001
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2019
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20190607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201905
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201903
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201901
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2018
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201805
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201803
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201801
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20170607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201705
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201703
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201701
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201609
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20160607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201605
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201603
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201601
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201509
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20150607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201506
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201504
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201503
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201502
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201501
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201410
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201409
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201408
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2014summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20140607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201404
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201403
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201402
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201401
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sportsfanretailer_201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20131011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201309
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201308
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20130607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201304
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201303
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201302
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201301
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201212
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20121011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201204
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201203
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201202
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201201
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20111011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201101
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook2010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20101112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_eco_2009fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2009fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20091112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook_200906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201001
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com