Impressions - March 2020 - 29

Be prepared to discuss
graphic options that
work with specif ic
substrates for the
best outcome when
decorating synthetics.

When you receive a request to print on a synthetic or performance
garment, consider the differences in the process before providing a
quote. Done correctly, it may cost more and take more time.
Points to consider include:
*	 Inks used for printing on high-polyester blended apparel are
more expensive.
*	 Design setup usually is more time consuming.
*	 The dryer belt will require a slower speed.
*	 Temperature must be exact and lower than when printing cotton.
*	 More screens are required because the temperature is lower.
*	 You won't be able to immediately stack garments after processing.
These extra steps add time to the process, and require more labor
and money - which will affect the garment's price.

You can choose from different ink platforms when printing on highpoly synthetic garments:
*	 Low-Bleed: These inks are ideal for 50/50 blends with low
synthetic content.
*	 High Poly: This ink is ideal for 100% polyester and highpoly-content fabrics. Its viscosity is thicker and super opaque.
*	 Carbon Base Gray/Black: This ink is used as an underbase
to absorb the fabric's dye when it gasses. The ink reduces or
blocks the fabric dye from filtering through to the ink surface.
*	 Low-Cure: These inks have a low blocking agent, but they
cure at 250˚F-280˚F and are ideal for heathers, tri-blends and

substrates requiring detail and a great hand. The low-cure quality enables heat reduction - which means no more scorched
garments - and energy reduction, which saves money.
Standard plastisol inks must cure at 320˚F, so you can't use them
on synthetic apparel without blockers. The key is to keep the garment temperature less than 280˚F to prevent dye migration, melting
or scorching.

Mesh Count: Using a 110-160 mesh will allow the best coverage
and opacity for base screens. Top inks can be printed using 160-230
mesh and 110-160 mesh can be used for a white overprint.
Viscosity: Stir the ink prior to production to reduce viscosity and
help push it through the mesh, resulting in a better print surface.
Squeegee Pressure: Use the least amount of squeegee pressure.
Keeping the ink on the fabric surface will help with opacity, hand and
migration. Fibers working up through the ink increases the probability of dye migration. However, using too much pressure will push
the ink through the fabric, leaving an undesirable feel.
Tapping/Smoothing Irons: Polyester inks are thick; hand is just
as important as reducing migration when printing on performance,
heather and tri-blend fabrics. Smoothing the ink surface will improve
the print's quality and feel.
In the first station, use a tapping/smoothing screen to lay down
any fibers. Print the base screen and flash, but instead of a cooldown
station, add another tapping/smoothing screen to smooth out the
ink. Then, print the top-color inks. Using two white screens is recommended.
Screen Tension: Keep ink on top of the fabric by having the
proper screen tension. If screens are tight and you use a thin thread
diameter, the mesh openings will allow better laydown. You won't
need as much pressure, and registration will be cleaner and tighter.
You also can achieve a smoother surface with less mesh texture in
your ink. Poor screen tension will result in registration issues, forcing you to apply more pressure to get the ink through the screens.
However, increased pressure will drive the ink through the fabric
and allow fibers to work themselves to the top of the ink, causing
more dye migration.
Flashing and Curing: The most important step when printing on
high-polyester synthetic fabrics: Don't over-flash or over-cure garments.
Migration occurs at about 270˚F, so use inks with a quick flash point.
Flash only for a few seconds and keep temperatures below 200˚F.
Also, reduce the number of flashes in your design; don't flash if it's
not required. Use inks that cure at a lower temperature - around
250˚F-270˚F. Slow the dryer's belt speed to ensure the ink is cured
and don't exceed the curing temperatures.
No Stacking: Don't stack garments until they are completely cool.
Pressure and heat can accelerate any migration. Fans and long cooling
stations on dryers will expedite the process.

Be prepared with different design options depending on your customer's request. A big, bold design may not work on a lighter-weight
synthetic garment; the ink will be super heavy and dye may migrate.
Heathers and tri-blends are good examples of super-soft, lightweight
garments on which heavy inks aren't very appealing.
One option is to rethink the artwork, open up the design or use
more of the garment's color instead of putting so much ink on the
garment. You also can recommend changing the substrate. Instead
MARCH 2020

28-30_IMP_0320_Fabrics_Feature 29

P.29

2/19/20 8:58 AM



Impressions - March 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Impressions - March 2020

Impressions - March 2020
First Impressions
From the Show Director
Overheard
First Look
Expo Scene
What Women are Wearing
‘It’s in My DNA’: A Roundtable Q&A
Fewer Problems with Poly
Tuning in to Social Channels
Shop Talk
Embroidery Production
Screen Printing Technique
Sublimation
Ad Index/Classifieds
On Design
Impressions - March 2020 - Intro
Impressions - March 2020 - CT1
Impressions - March 2020 - CT2
Impressions - March 2020 - Impressions - March 2020
Impressions - March 2020 - Cover2
Impressions - March 2020 - 1
Impressions - March 2020 - 2
Impressions - March 2020 - 3
Impressions - March 2020 - 4
Impressions - March 2020 - 5
Impressions - March 2020 - First Impressions
Impressions - March 2020 - 7
Impressions - March 2020 - From the Show Director
Impressions - March 2020 - 9
Impressions - March 2020 - Overheard
Impressions - March 2020 - 11
Impressions - March 2020 - 12
Impressions - March 2020 - 13
Impressions - March 2020 - 13A
Impressions - March 2020 - 13B
Impressions - March 2020 - First Look
Impressions - March 2020 - 15
Impressions - March 2020 - Expo Scene
Impressions - March 2020 - 17
Impressions - March 2020 - What Women are Wearing
Impressions - March 2020 - 19
Impressions - March 2020 - 20
Impressions - March 2020 - 21
Impressions - March 2020 - ‘It’s in My DNA’: A Roundtable Q&A
Impressions - March 2020 - 23
Impressions - March 2020 - 24
Impressions - March 2020 - 25
Impressions - March 2020 - 26
Impressions - March 2020 - 27
Impressions - March 2020 - Fewer Problems with Poly
Impressions - March 2020 - 29
Impressions - March 2020 - 30
Impressions - March 2020 - Tuning in to Social Channels
Impressions - March 2020 - 32
Impressions - March 2020 - 33
Impressions - March 2020 - Shop Talk
Impressions - March 2020 - 35
Impressions - March 2020 - Embroidery Production
Impressions - March 2020 - 37
Impressions - March 2020 - 38
Impressions - March 2020 - 39
Impressions - March 2020 - Screen Printing Technique
Impressions - March 2020 - 41
Impressions - March 2020 - 42
Impressions - March 2020 - 43
Impressions - March 2020 - Sublimation
Impressions - March 2020 - 45
Impressions - March 2020 - 46
Impressions - March 2020 - Ad Index/Classifieds
Impressions - March 2020 - On Design
Impressions - March 2020 - Cover3
Impressions - March 2020 - Cover4
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS1
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS2
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS3
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS4
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS5
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/DigitalDecorator_2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20210809
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/teamactivewear_2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202105
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/imp_0421_digital
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20210102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_fall2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nxtbook_bhtest/impwessons
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20201011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202009
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2020fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20200607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202005
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202001
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2019
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20190607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201905
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201903
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201901
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2018
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201805
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201803
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201801
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20170607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201705
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201703
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201701
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201609
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20160607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201605
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201603
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201601
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201509
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20150607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201506
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201504
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201503
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201502
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201501
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201410
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201409
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201408
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2014summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20140607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201404
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201403
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201402
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201401
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sportsfanretailer_201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20131011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201309
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201308
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20130607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201304
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201303
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201302
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201301
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201212
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20121011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201204
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201203
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201202
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201201
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20111011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201101
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook2010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20101112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_eco_2009fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2009fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20091112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook_200906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201001
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com