Impressions - March 2020 - 36

think.
EMBROIDERY PRODUCTION

make.

Like this article? Read more embroidery
articles at impressionsmag.com/embroidery.

do.

Break Away from
Boring Embroidery
Appliqué and specialty stitches can help your garments
stand out while creating higher perceived value.
BY JEREMY PICKER, CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Shown is appliqué incorporating
canvas on felt. Bean or chain
stitches are ideal tack-down
options, and felt also helps achieve
vintage and streetwear looks. Photo
provided by AMB3R Creative.

embroidery and give your customers a garment that will stand
out and create higher perceived value. Anyone can digitize a
logo and add it to a garment, but have you sought other stitches
that have more interest and retail appeal?
Here, I will share stitches I have used or seen in retail that
could fit your needs, depending on the design style and overall
look you want to achieve.
Specialty Stitches

Although hand embroidery and appliqué have been around for
millennia, computerized machine embroidery is only about 40
years old. Prior to its advent, the Schiffli embroidery machine,
invented in 1863, was a fully automated machine that later used
punch cards to embroider designs.
Sports jerseys always have been the most popular form of
appliqué in our industry, followed by prep and collegiate looks.
Appliqué - sewing piles of fabric on top of a base fabric - was
modernized with digital machine embroidery, which significantly accelerated production and made it more cost efficient.
Abercrombie & Fitch, Starter and many other vintage streetwear
brands helped pioneer how we use appliqué in custom apparel.
Today, appliqué and specialty stitches - beyond the satin
and fill varieties - can help you break free from basic, flat
P.36

Bean: This stitch type is more common with thin script fonts
or creating outlines of chunky fonts or motif designs. Options
include a single-row bean stitch that has two to three stitches
or a chunkier look with five to six passes to give the appearance
of hand-embroidered thread.
Chain: This stitch type mainly was sewn by hand until the
1800s, when a machine was created to replicate it.You need
a special machine to create a true chain stitch, but a normal
embroidery machine can create a faux chain stitch. It basically
uses triangles layered on top of each other to give the appearance of a chain loop. I like this stitch because it can take on
many design styles.
Whip: Joe Kramar, embroidery designer for Arizona-based
X-treme Apparel, and the former senior digitizer and R&D
specialist for Abercrombie & Fitch, first told me about this stitch.
It's basically a satin stitch with multiple passes on the same spot.
It resembles a "chunky" ladder and gives a more horizontal-bar
look compared to the vertical bean-stitch look.
Lofty and Loose Satin: This look is achieved by using
washaway felt underneath the stitch, but on top of the garment. By creating a loose satin stitch, the felt escapes during

I M P R E S S I O N S M A G . C O M MARCH 2020

36-39_IMP_0320_TMD_EmbProd 36

2/19/20 10:47 AM


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Impressions - March 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Impressions - March 2020

Impressions - March 2020
First Impressions
From the Show Director
Overheard
First Look
Expo Scene
What Women are Wearing
‘It’s in My DNA’: A Roundtable Q&A
Fewer Problems with Poly
Tuning in to Social Channels
Shop Talk
Embroidery Production
Screen Printing Technique
Sublimation
Ad Index/Classifieds
On Design
Impressions - March 2020 - Intro
Impressions - March 2020 - CT1
Impressions - March 2020 - CT2
Impressions - March 2020 - Impressions - March 2020
Impressions - March 2020 - Cover2
Impressions - March 2020 - 1
Impressions - March 2020 - 2
Impressions - March 2020 - 3
Impressions - March 2020 - 4
Impressions - March 2020 - 5
Impressions - March 2020 - First Impressions
Impressions - March 2020 - 7
Impressions - March 2020 - From the Show Director
Impressions - March 2020 - 9
Impressions - March 2020 - Overheard
Impressions - March 2020 - 11
Impressions - March 2020 - 12
Impressions - March 2020 - 13
Impressions - March 2020 - 13A
Impressions - March 2020 - 13B
Impressions - March 2020 - First Look
Impressions - March 2020 - 15
Impressions - March 2020 - Expo Scene
Impressions - March 2020 - 17
Impressions - March 2020 - What Women are Wearing
Impressions - March 2020 - 19
Impressions - March 2020 - 20
Impressions - March 2020 - 21
Impressions - March 2020 - ‘It’s in My DNA’: A Roundtable Q&A
Impressions - March 2020 - 23
Impressions - March 2020 - 24
Impressions - March 2020 - 25
Impressions - March 2020 - 26
Impressions - March 2020 - 27
Impressions - March 2020 - Fewer Problems with Poly
Impressions - March 2020 - 29
Impressions - March 2020 - 30
Impressions - March 2020 - Tuning in to Social Channels
Impressions - March 2020 - 32
Impressions - March 2020 - 33
Impressions - March 2020 - Shop Talk
Impressions - March 2020 - 35
Impressions - March 2020 - Embroidery Production
Impressions - March 2020 - 37
Impressions - March 2020 - 38
Impressions - March 2020 - 39
Impressions - March 2020 - Screen Printing Technique
Impressions - March 2020 - 41
Impressions - March 2020 - 42
Impressions - March 2020 - 43
Impressions - March 2020 - Sublimation
Impressions - March 2020 - 45
Impressions - March 2020 - 46
Impressions - March 2020 - Ad Index/Classifieds
Impressions - March 2020 - On Design
Impressions - March 2020 - Cover3
Impressions - March 2020 - Cover4
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS1
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS2
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS3
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS4
Impressions - March 2020 - ISS5
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/DigitalDecorator_2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20210809
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/teamactivewear_2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202105
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/imp_0421_digital
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20210102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_fall2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nxtbook_bhtest/impwessons
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20201011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202009
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2020fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20200607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202005
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202001
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2019
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20190607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201905
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201903
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201901
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2018
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201805
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201803
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201801
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20170607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201705
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201703
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201701
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201609
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20160607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201605
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201603
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201601
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201509
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20150607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201506
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201504
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201503
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201502
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201501
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201410
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201409
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201408
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2014summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20140607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201404
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201403
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201402
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201401
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sportsfanretailer_201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20131011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201309
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201308
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20130607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201304
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201303
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201302
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201301
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201212
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20121011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201204
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201203
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201202
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201201
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20111011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201101
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook2010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20101112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_eco_2009fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2009fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20091112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook_200906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201001
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com