Impressions - March 2021 - 35

Figure 3

The
secret to
executing
a good
design on
thinner
fabrics is
placing
the right
number
of stitches
on the
garment.

Figure 4

the letters or the narrower the column, the lighter the density
that should be used.This also means that the lighter the density,
the wider the column must be.The wider column will pull in,
giving the lettering a rounded, full look.The more those stitches
are allowed to pull in, the more they'll fill in.
If you digitize the letters using the default density value in your
embroidery software, you'll find the results to be overstitched
and the design will be distorted. Sure, following the rules and
copying what you see will give you a clean representation of the
lettering or art on your computer screen. However, for thinner
fabrics, what you see on the screen is not what you will get, as
shown in Figure 2.
Density and Columns
Starting with the predigitized font in your software or the digitized
letters that you have created at full density - which look perfect on
the screen - lighten the densities and widen the columns. Reduce
density until you have 75% of the original number of stitches. If
the letter is less than .22 inches, delete the underlay, then widen
the column by 40%.
This works in any software system and you're now using push-pull
to your advantage.You're causing the stitches to pull in by making
them wider (longer) and giving them room to fill in by lightening
the density. Figure 3 shows the same letters stitched on a thin fabric.
It contains 500 fewer stitches than Figure 2 (900 vs. 1,400).
In Figure 4, the lettering may not look as good on the screen, but
how it stitches matters.As each column in the letter is stitched, it
pulls and fills in, creating room for the next column.This not only
works, but it also allows for fewer stitches and easier production.
The third group of stitches, the fill or tatami, also needs the stitch
length and densities addressed.To ensure no rolling or cardboard

effect,layer the fills.Prevent the pulling and pushing by gently adding
stitches to that thinner fabric. By " gently, " I mean a little at a time.
Start with the fill or tatami, set up at full density and placed at
a horizontal angle instead of the default.The horizontal angle is
advised because the grain of most fabrics runs vertically; a horizontal
angle will result in the best color with the fewest number of stitches.
For density and stitch length, use the software's default values.
See how many stitches are included in the full-density object with
no underlays. Reduce density to one-third of the stitches. For
example, if the original object had 1,500 stitches, the goal should
be 500 stitches.
This " layer " or object will appear to be transparent.With only
one-third of the stitches needed for full coverage, you will need to
add two more layers.This is done by duplicating the first layer twice.
If the first layer starts at the top and ends at the bottom, change the
" start " and " stop " functions of the second layer so that it starts at
the bottom - where the first layer ended - and ends at the top.
The third layer is set up just like the first layer and will start at the
top, where the second layer ended.
Next, shorten the stitch length by 15% for greater stability. If you
need a clean edge on this layered fill, an edge-run under the second
layer should do it.This will result in a " thin " fill or tatami that doesn't
pull in or push out; accepts detail; and doesn't look like cardboard.
Altogether, with careful attention to stitch length and densities
on each of the three groups of stitches - the run, column or satin
stitches - as well as the fill stitch, you will have a successful product
that you and your customer will brag about for years to come. 
Lee Caroselli-Barnes, owner of Balboa Threadworks Embroidery Design,
is known for her innovation and excellence in embroidery digitizing. She
has more than 30 years of experience in the embroidery industry. For more
information or to comment on this article, email Lee at balboainfo@aol.com.
MARCH 2021

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Impressions - March 2021

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