2018Q3SpiritedVA - 64

DAVID SUNSHINE

BEHIND THE BAR

Calvin Roberts, kybecca, Fredericksburg.

L

ike many in the industry, Calvin Roberts
"just fell into" bartending. He started as
a server at age 18 and began working the
bar after turning age 21. He's now at historic
Fredericksburg's kybecca, a fine dining
restaurant emphasizing local ingredients,
sustainability and top-notch cocktails.
What do you enjoy most about working
behind a bar?
The interaction with people. You really have
the chance to encourage people to try new
things, even things they had decided they
didn't like. For example, it's exciting when
someone says, "I absolutely hate gin," and
you find a way to serve them gin that gets
them to take a fresh look.
What's special about bartending at kybecca?
It's a really small bar so there's a lot of
social interaction. Fredericksburg still has a
small-town feel, and you get to form lasting
connections with people and see them form
lasting connections with each other.
Are there mixology trends that you find
especially exciting?

58 VIRGINIA ABC | ABC.VIRGINIA.GOV

I really like the Latin American spirits and
seeing the blending where you take cachaças
and piscos and mezcals and play with classic
American recipes. For example, I've made a
Last Word variation called the Naked and
Famous, equal parts mezcal, lemon juice,
Aperol and yellow chartreuse. Add a little
chili pepper or spice extract and call it a Hot
Naked and Famous.
What's your favorite spirit?
I buy pisco most because of the price point -
the quality to price ratio - but if I had all the
money in the world, it would be mezcal. It's
complex. A lot of attention is given to Scotches
and whiskies, but agave spirits can be just as
complex and refreshing at the same time. I like
a good Scotch in front of the fire, but a really
nice mezcal, that flavor will linger.
I like to use the Del Maguey Vida Mezcal. I
call it a one-note mezcal, and that one note is
smoke. There's a little agave in there, too, but
the smoke is very potent. I wouldn't drink it
neat, but it can stand up to other ingredients
really well. In a more spirit-forward cocktail, I
might use a subtler mezcal if it doesn't need
to stand up and I don't want a smoke bomb.

How do the quality of the ingredients-
mixers and liquors-matter?
They're incredibly important. There's a huge
difference in flavor between fresh and not
fresh ingredients-your store-bought lime
juice versus fresh-juiced limes. Fruits and
vegetables, when you get them locally in
season, taste dramatically different.
I wouldn't use a bottom-shelf liquor. I
don't want to use anything in a cocktail that
I couldn't drink neat. It's like cooking with
wine - you don't need to use the best wine
but one you could at least drink without
making a face.
What are your favorite Virginia distilleries?
Mount Defiance has been producing highquality takes on classic liqueurs that are
head and shoulders above the widely
available counterparts. They make an
amaretto that is considerably less sweet
than their classic competitors and has
greater depth of flavor. Every one of their
liqueurs that I've tasted has been top notch.
For a craft cocktail bartender, it's really
useful.

-Annie Tobey
http://ABC.VIRGINIA.GOV
2018Q3SpiritedVA

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