Iowa Fall 20-Winter 21 - 32

The final Cedar Ridge product is the result of many small processes inside the barrels.

CEDAR RIDGE DISTILLERY

the chemical magic and subtly affects the palate
magic (like a toasted marshmallow that briefly caught
fire!). Char levels typically range from #1 (burned for
15 seconds) to #4 (55 seconds). Number 4, called
"alligator char," has a scaly texture that gives more
surface area for the liquor to interact with and also
filters the liquor (like the charcoal filtering of
Tennessee whiskey).
Cooperages can use other tricks to influence the
interaction of the wood and the liquor. Independent
Stave Co., for example, creates a spiral cut barrel (a
continuous groove cut into the barrel after charring)
and a wave stave barrel (smooth ridges cut prior to
charring), both of which increase the surface area.
In an experiment with Buffalo Trace, ISC treated
barrels with infrared light waves.
Barrel sizes range from the industry-standard 53
gallon to 30, 15, 10, and 5. A smaller barrel increases
the surface-to-whiskey ratio, giving the liquor greater
contact with the wood. This accelerates aging, meaning the liquor is ready for the market sooner (a clear
business benefit). Distillers can also accelerate aging
with chunks and spirals of charred wood. Because

32 IOWA SPIRITS

time matters in aging-chemical magic takes time-
distillers and drinkers debate how accelerating aging
affects quality.
While the spirit rests in the wood, other factors
come into play:
* Barrels breathe and leak. Besides the occasional
leak between staves, the porous properties of wood
allow the exchange of air and liquids, shedding water
(resulting in a higher-alcohol spirit) and alcohol. The
barrel actually loses about five percent of the liquor
each year, dubbed the "angel's share." Fluctuations
in temperature and barometric pressure move the
spirit into and out of the wood.
* Location influences aging, since temperature,
altitude and external air conditions (like the salt air
influence in Islay Scotch whiskies) affect the final
product.
* Time matters. The longer the alcohol rests in
the barrel, the more it changes. But longer isn't
always better. Certainly, aging raises a liquor's price,
but that's also caused by economic influences, since
the distillers' capital is tied up in barrels and
warehousing.

Iowa Fall 20-Winter 21

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