Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 46

Great Dining Rooms,
Great Recipes
THESE SIGNATURE MOUNTAIN RESTAURANTS EARNED
THAT STATUS THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN - WITH
SIGNATURE MOUNTAIN DISHES. HERE'S HOW TO ENJOY
THEM AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.
by Cara Ellen Modisett
"IT HAS MOLASSES IN IT," my husband says. My mother

starts to ask how much, and then: "no, just don't tell
me." She's in Roanoke for the afternoon, and can't stay
long enough for the stack cake to finish baking, and she
loves molasses.
She grew up in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia,
in Page County farmland between those old mountains. Annual homecoming suppers at our little country
church were baked beans, country ham, deviled eggs,
homemade coconut cake. I was back there not long
ago, sadly, for a family funeral, but it's the sort of place
and time that I can go back and feel I've never really left
- the lunch afterwards was as nourishing as the sermon
and the fellowship, with - yes, deviled eggs - fried
chicken, country ham, coffee, lemonade, and fully four
different kinds of Jell-O salad, and they were not on
the dessert table. And yes, the desserts get their own
table.
Phil, my husband, who is not from the mountains,
or the south at all - he grew up in Pennsylvania and
New York (as in City) - is the cook in our house, and I
sent him the recipe for Apple Stack Cake that's up on
Asheville, N.C.-based restaurant Early Girl Eatery's
website. He's a cook, as I said, not a baker, and so this

46 | BlueRidgeCountry.com

may have been as much a challenge for him as it would
be for me (I cannot remember how to make a grilled
cheese sandwich) but a few hours later, we were slicing
the stack cake among - who else? - church friends
following an evening service, these days at a little urban
parish two and a half blocks away from our house, not
a 40-minute drive up the valley, but the same thing.
Desecration may have occurred. Phil substituted
lemon and ginger for the cloves and brown sugar, and
he didn't dry the apples, as the recipe instructs - "I
cooked them on the stovetop the way I would start an
apple crisp." He skinned, cored and sliced the apples
and cooked them with sugar to soften them. His other
tweak: a cup of apple cider reduced to a syrup, added
to the apples.
Desecration or no, the resulting stack cake - "an
Appalachian torte, basically," Phil reflected - was quite
good, with dollops of whipped cream.
We'll make more for my mother the next time she
comes to visit.
In the meantime, I asked five regional restaurants
for their signature mountain dishes. Here they are,
from the traditional to the traditional-with-a-twist -
including one recipe for deviled eggs.


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Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014

Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014
Table of Contents
Print to Mobile
From the Editor
From the Farm
Festivals & Events
The Hike
Creature Feature
Mountain Report
Country Roads
Potomac Highlands Adventures
Get Up Early! Great Farm Vacations
Saving Mabry Mill
Photo Essay: Mountain Skies
Signature Mountain Dishes
Waterfront Living
Mountain Garden
Cabin in the Woods: Canaan Resort
Guest Column
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Cover2
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Table of Contents
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 4
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Print to Mobile
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - From the Editor
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 7
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - From the Farm
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 9
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Festivals & Events
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 11
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 12
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 13
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 14
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 15
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - The Hike
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 17
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Creature Feature
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Mountain Report
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Country Roads
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 21
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 22
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 23
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Potomac Highlands Adventures
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 25
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 26
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 27
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 28
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 29
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 30
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 31
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 32
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 33
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Get Up Early! Great Farm Vacations
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 35
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 36
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 37
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Saving Mabry Mill
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 39
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 40
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 41
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Photo Essay: Mountain Skies
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 43
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 44
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 45
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Signature Mountain Dishes
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 47
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 48
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 49
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 50
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 51
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 52
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 53
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Waterfront Living
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 55
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 56
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 57
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 58
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 59
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 60
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 61
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 62
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 63
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 64
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 65
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 66
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 67
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 68
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 69
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 70
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 71
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 72
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Mountain Garden
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 74
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 75
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 76
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 77
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Cabin in the Woods: Canaan Resort
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 79
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 80
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - 81
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Guest Column
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Cover3
Blue Ridge Country - July/August 2014 - Cover4
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