ACtion Magazine - Napa Special Edition - June 2017 - 4

Tips from Gates

Stop second time $0 proﬁts!
Be "system smart" in your approach to belt drive,
cooling, and other repairs
Bobby Bassett / Gates Corp.

"When it comes to Accessory Belt Drive Systems (ABDS), we've
learned it's all about the system, not any single component," stated Bobby
Bassett, the national training manager for Gates Corp. This was one of the
key takeaways from his seminar, Stop Second Time $0 Profits!

It's Time to Think 'Systems,' Not 'Parts'

When servicing an ABDS, think about the system as
a whole - belt, tensioner, decoupler alternator, etc.
Replacing one part without considering the remaining
worn parts leaves 'weak links' prone to failure, comebacks and disgruntled customers. The same holds
true for cooling, charging, fuel and other systems in
automobiles.

"According to an industry survey by the AASA/ASA Warranty Task
Force, 97.5 percent of system-related warranty repairs could have been
prevented by routine system maintenance," noted Bassett. Here are some
of the other industry-wide facts shared by the task force and Gates Corp.:
* 90 percent of timing belts fail after belt replacement only.
* 40 percent of radiator failure is due to coolant contamination.
* 70 percent of alternators returned after replacement had nothing wrong with them.
* 95 percent of water pump failures are due to coolant "flush
and clean" not being performed.
* 90 percent of fuel line hose sold today is not suitable for
today's fuels.

Water pump weeps
By Steve Schaeber, MACS Technical Editor

ost modern engines use some type of water pump to
circulate antifreeze through the engine and heat exchangers to regulate operating temperature. Many of
the engine-driven pumps contain shaft seals that are
lubricated by the coolant itself. As part of the pump's
normal operation, these seals are in direct contact with the coolant, which
leaks (extremely) slowly past the seal as it provides lubrication. Once past
the seal this small amount of fluid collects in an area known as the weep
chamber. It's a place where this leaked coolant has a chance to evaporate, its vapor escaping through a vent or weep hole.
Older style water pumps had a similar setup, although they were designed to simply allow the lubricating coolant to drip past the water pump
seal and into the weep hole and drip out of the pump housing, along the
front of the engine and eventually down onto the ground, that is if it could
make it that far. In most cases, especially when the vehicle is in motion or
the engine cooling fan is operating, that dripping coolant would be blown
across the front of the engine and evaporate relatively quickly not causing
alarm, although over time a rusty stain may develop. As the water pump
shaft seal wears out further, the coolant leak rate can increase to the point
where it becomes a visible drip or puddle requiring replacement of the
pump.

ACTION/NAPA * Spring 2017

To help technicians diagnose their newest style of water pumps, Ford
has issued GSB (General Service Bulletin) # GSB-0000083, "Cooling
System - Coolant Pump Warranty Information." This bulletin, which
is intended to explain coolant pump design characteristics and features,
what normal staining looks like and show an example of a leak, along
with a diagnostic tip. It's all in an effort to explain what water pump weeping is and how to figure out when to replace the pump.
Newer model Ford engines, such as the 2.0-Litre 4 cylinder in the
2012 Focus, use a type of water pump with a coolant-lubricating seal and
integral weep chamber. Any coolant that collects in the chamber later
evaporates with normal usage. Sometimes this can result in an exterior
stain due to the vapor escaping past the vent hole and collecting on the
pump housing rather than on the inside of the weep chamber. Ford wants
technicians to know that this is a normal characteristic of the pump style
and is not an indication of failure. But if there is wet coolant or puddles on
the weep chamber, a quick test can determine whether or not the pump
needs to be replaced.
Dry the coolant pump housing using a clean paper towel. You might
have to wipe the area a few times, especially if there's dirt, oil or grime.
Allow some time then wipe it again. If the towel only has a dry or waxy
residue, the seal is working properly. But if the towel is wet, the pump is
leaking and needs to be replaced. ❆

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of ACtion Magazine - Napa Special Edition - June 2017