Beauty Link - volume 2, issue 1 - (Page 46)

Q | feat ure | R Turning Over Annet King , D irector of Gl ob a l Edu c a t i o n , D e r m a l og i c a / Th e Inte r n a t i o n a l De r m al In st it ute Our skin is a renewable resource. But like our air, oceans and planet, there are thresholds of exhaustion and depletion which, once crossed, may be devastating. When you or your students are approaching the topic of exfoliation with clients, it is crucial to put this aspect of skin care into context. Over-exfoliation is perhaps one of the most common skin mishaps we see among consumers. Skin-savvy female consumers in particular desire more glowing, polished and radiant Hollywood starlet skin, yet tend to overdo it—sometimes to a drastic extreme. If these cells are not removed effectively as the result of age, illness or some other factor, the resulting accumulation gives the skin a dull and ashy—even flakey—appearance, accentuating fine lines around the eyes and mouth and increasing congestion and breakouts in acne-prone skin. Thick accumulation of cells also prevents product ingredients from reaching the deeper layers of the skin. Thus, clients investing in professional skin treatment serums and creams are wasting their money if they are not adequately exfoliating, as penetration is impaired. Gentle exfoliation keeps these debris from accumulating. Today, the market is full of exfoliants that are gentle enough to use daily, such as superfi ne powders and scrubs containing silky microparticles of rice bran, phytic acid or corncob meal. These lift dead cell debris using only the mildest bit of mechanical action, and still leave the lipid barrier robust and intact. The Science of Exfoliation Clients need to begin with the basic understanding that skin is a living organism. The term “exfoliation” comes from the Latin word for leaf, which is “folio,” as in “foliage.” This may be a helpful analogy when we think of trees in parks and gardens. When they are well-pruned and trimmed, they flourish. But when a deciduous tree drops its leaves in winter, or a plant is stripped of all its leaves and bark by a chemical defoliant, the results are bleak. Without leaves and protective tough bark, the tree is unprotected from harsh weather extremes and will lose critical moisture from within. This is precisely what happens when skin is over-exfoliated. Without a healthy lipid barrier and tightly packed layer of cells, the skin loses its own wall of protection and internal moisture quickly evaporates. The skin cannot effectively guard itself from invading organisms and environmental assault through free radicals, which are predominantly responsible for the visible signs of aging we see on the skin. Ironically, the same course of action intended to keep the skin vibrant, supple and youthful also results in skin that is fragile, easily sensitized, heals slowly and lacks in structural fortitude. The good news? Our skin is genetically designed for remarkable resilience. Our skin perpetually generates new cells from the stratum germinativum, also known as the stratum basale or basal cell layer. As plump new cells rise from the deepest layer, the outer layers must be discarded. This process of cell renewal relies upon desquamation, or removal of the hardened, dry layer of flat keratinized cells on the surface of the skin.| B EA U TYLIN K | T H E 2 0 1 0 ST UDE NT Expert Intervention As the normal desquamation process slows, clients may seek more aggressive intervention through the expertise of a skin therapist. Before embarking on a professional series of skin resurfacing or exfoliation treatments, the skin therapist must check for possible contraindications. An in-depth skin consultation is essential to developing a safe exfoliation procedure and prescription. A visual and tactile analysis of the skin is essential to verify any allergies, nerve activity, causes of hyperpigmentation, products used and past medical procedures. The skin therapist should also take time to ask the client additional questions. For example, a client that has recovered from a recent cold may not think to tell you about it, but their cold may have had an effect on their skin. Cold medications and constant nose wiping can dehydrate skin and impair barrier function around the nose and lips. However, this type of incidence is typically overlooked, as it is not a classic contra-indication, such as a prescription vitamin A-derived cream or an oral medication. It should be noted that any medically prescribed exfoliating product must be discussed and possibly discontinued. Likewise, for safety, clients taking oral Isotretinoin within the last six months are also contraindicated to exfoliation and waxing. Keep in mind when training your students that we see the highest amount of litigious action taken by clients because of the professional exfoliation step of skin treatments—which is why signed consent is critical. The student or licensed skin therapist that cuts

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Beauty Link - volume 2, issue 1

Beauty Link - volume 2, issue 1
Message From the AACS President And CEA Chair
Teaching The Millennial Generation
The Workings Of Washington
Mobile Marketing: The Next Big Thing In Recruitment Advertising
Mindset List For The Class of 2010
AACS Listserve Q&A: Extinguishing Bad Attitudes
Decoding The Results: Attitudes And Perceptions Of Beauty And Wellness Careers From the AACS Commissioned National Survey
Educator Resource Review
And Then There’s Compliance
The 2009 AACS Annual Convention: Building Essential Links To Success
Voices From The Classroom
From A Distance: Today’s Education Experience
Turning Over A New Leaf
Regulatory Issues
Connecting Through Conflict: Turning Angry Clients Into Happy Ones
Student Scholarship Opportunities
Superstar Graduates
New School Members
Associate Member Profiles
New Products & Services
People & Places
Calling All Skin Care Educators
Upcoming 2010 Events
Index To Advertisers

Beauty Link - volume 2, issue 1