US Airways - January 2014 - (Page 15)
explore
Wine & Dine
Taste, Savor,
Enjoy
Baking Outside
the Box
Craft culture is sweetening
the deal on American pastries.
By Scott Morris
Mention American pastries and most people
are apt to think Ding Dongs, Twinkies,
exhausted donuts at the breakfast buffet, artificial
flavors, and enough preservatives to survive global
warming. But thanks to a new generation of pastry
chefs and artisan bakers, we're entering a golden age
of scratch baking.
For acclaimed pastry chef Rebecca Rather, it's
always been about scratch baking. "I've been doing
it that way for years," she says. "Everything I do is
fresh, seasonal, and from scratch. I baked everything
for my daughter that way. I even made her baby
food."
From her commitment to using the best ingredients to her hard work in the kitchen, it's clear Rather
sees baking as a calling, not a job. "I'll put in 70 to
80 hours a week," she explains. "I've baked things
for a lot of my friends to give their boyfriends. They
end up getting married. Meanwhile I'm still busy
baking!"
Rather's debut venue, Rather Sweet Bakery in
Fredericksburg, Texas, became a destination for
gourmands seeking the best pies and cakes. Her two
cookbooks, The Pastry Queen and The Pastry Queen
Christmas, offer one-of-a-kind specialties that reflect
her sense of passion and playfulness. "I love coming
up with new things. Tuxedo Cake is one of my inventions," she says. "My signature is probably my
Texas Big Hair meringue. You know, like the bighaired women in Dallas."
That mix of experimentation and commitment
marks another of the country's best, Ken Forkish,
who owns Ken's Artisan Bakery in Portland, Oregon. Unlike Rather, who started baking when she
was 12, Forkish grew up in Maryland as a normal
★
ILLUSTRATION BY BILL BROWN
kid eating junk food and didn't get started baking
until his 40s. After a 19-year career in Silicon Valley,
he had one of those "what the heck am I doing with
my life?" moments and began to learn the art of
baking. For American croissant lovers, Forkish's
career change has turned out pretty sweet.
"People are developing an appreciation for craft
culture," says Forkish. "They're tired of processed,
mass-produced food. They want something made by
someone with great skill and dedication."
Forkish begins rehearsing the numerous steps,
each highly detailed, that go into the 24 hours it
takes to make his croissants. After several minutes,
he pauses. "I could keep going with this," he chuckles. "But you get the picture."
Aside from achieving a genuine rarity in being
nominated for two James Beard Awards in one year
usairwaysmag.com
JANUARY 2014
15
http://www.usairwaysmag.com
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of US Airways - January 2014
Table of Contents
CEO Letter
From the Editor
Did You Know?
Hot Spots: Winter Festivals
Wine & Dine: Pastries
Style Spotlight: Carry-On Essentials
Diversions: ArtistWorks
Great Escapes: Hotel Zetta
Great Escapes: Quintero Golf Club
Gear Up: Smart Kitchen
Travel Feature: Vail and Beaver Creek Ski Resorts
US Airways: The Airline's Fleet
Winter Warriors: Olympic Athletes
Celebrate Oakland, CA
Best of Health: Miami Foot & Ankle Surgery
Cactus League
Puzzles
Readers Resource Index
Your US Airways Guide
Video Entertainment
Audio Entertainment
U.S. and Caribbean Service Map
International Service Map
Airport Terminal Maps
US Airways Fleet/Customs & Immigration
Passenger Info/Contact US Airways
US Airways MarketPlace®
Window or Aisle?
US Airways - January 2014
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