Pennsylvania Game News - June 2014 - 63

Keep your reloading table/bench free
of clutter. Don't keep extra powder(s)
or primers near your press. The same
holds for components from multiple
manufacturers. Confusion can cause
accidents.
With the correct components, it is
time to look at the entire reloading
procedure using a single-stage reloading press. This is what occurs at each
station on your machine:
1) Place empty shotshell at the first
station and remove the primer.
2) Place a primer and shell at station
two and press primer into the shell.
(Until you are comfortable, check to
ensure the primer is seated flush with
the bottom of the shotshell.)
3) Move the shotshell to station
three; add powder from the container.
Now, add a plastic wad. Then add shot.
4) Move shotshell to station four
and put a partial crimp in the shotshell.

5) Move shotshell to the last station
and put a finished crimp on it.
6) Remove the shotshell and check
the crimp and ensure the primer is flush
with the base of the shell; a primer
that is not properly seated could cause
premature firing.
7) That's it; you have just loaded
your first shell.
The procedure will be slow at first,
but don't rush yourself or the process.
Double check your components and
settings. Your speed will increase as
you become comfortable. Keeping a
reloading log is a good idea that helps
you stay on track safety-wise and
supply-wise.
Put your reloads into boxes and be
sure to identify each box correctly. You
certainly do not want to wake up at
turkey camp next year and have only
two boxes of 20-gauge, ¾-ounce loads
to go with your 3½-inch, 12-gauge
semi-auto.

Trapper's Tips...

By Dan Lynch

Anchoring Traps:
Anchoring foot-hold traps in extremely rocky terrain can be difficult. An alternative to using rebar and cable stakes is to use about 5 feet of 3/32-inch or 1/8-inch
galvanized aircraft cable and two appropriate-sized aluminum double ferrules found
in hardware stores and many trapping supply dealers. You will also need a table
vise, pliers and a hammer. Slide one end of the cable through one hole of one of the
ferrules and then through the last link or swivel at the end of your trap chain. Then
slide it back through the other end of the ferrule, making a small loop. Hammer
or squeeze that ferrule shut on the cable. Slide the other end of the cable through
one hole of the second ferrule and back through the ferrule, making a loop. Put the
tag-end of the ferrule into your vise and squeeze only that side of the ferrule tight
against the cable. By doing this you have enabled the loop of the cable to be opened
wide to pass the trap through around a tree, root or large object acting as a drag,
and then cinch it tightly after the trap is through it. There won't be any need to
pound in any stakes and you can effectively trap in rocky terrain using an alternative
method of staking that is stronger than twisted wire.
JUNE 2014

63
Pennsylvania Game News - June 2014

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