Pizza Today - April 2016 - (Page 26)

dough doctor with TOM LEHMANN Man vs. Machine The Dough Doctor sounds off on opening a dough skin and using air impingement ovens By JOSH KEOWN Q: Can I get the same chewiness and crispness from a machine rolled dough as from a hand-toss forming procedure? A: If the intent is to fully open the dough by machine to form the pizza skin without any changes from what 2 6 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / A P R I L 2 0 1 6 you are presently doing by hand tossing, the answer is no. Hand-toss forming has essentially no impact upon the gas entrapped within the dough, so as soon as the dough goes into the oven those gas cells almost immediately begin expanding to create an open and porous cell structure which is conducive to achieving a crispy crust characteristic -- though not necessarily the chewiest. When the dough is fully opened by machine to full size, there is almost always extensive degassing of the dough. If taken directly to the oven, what gas is left entrapped within the dough is slower to expand. The open, porous crumb structure is not formed, resulting in thinner, denser dough that exhibits better heat transfer properties than the hand-tossed dough during baking. This, in turn, allows more heat to be effectively transported from the bottom of the pizza to the top where the moisture from the sauce and vegetable toppings help to dissipate the heat in the form of steam. This results in the bottom of the pizza never getting hot enough for a sufficient long period of time to develop a very crispy characteristic, and if the pizza is baked long enough to develop a crispy characteristic the crispiness is soon lost after baking. On the other hand, these same machine-rolled doughs have a penchant for developing a chewy finished crust characteristic resulting from that dense crumb structure. The issues with dense crumb structure can be addressed by allowing time for the machine rolled (sheeted) dough to rise for a period of time after forming and before dressing and going to the oven. This rising (proofing) time allows the open cell structure in the dough to reform so the dough can perform more like that of the hand-formed dough with similar finished crust characteristics. However, the challenge to http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - April 2016

Pizza Today - April 2016
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Respecting the Craft
Trending Recipes
Destinations
Dough Doctor
Worthy Remodels
Patio Seating
Making Your Own Breads
Think outside of your traditional dough recipe
Side Dishes
Online Employee Applications
Pizza Today on the Road: Napizza, San Diego, CA
Pizza Today on the Road: URBN, San Diego, CA
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Snapped

Pizza Today - April 2016

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