Pizza Today - October 2016 - 40

hile visiting a pizzeria near the beach in Ostia, Italy, I ordered a magnificent white pizza with Gorgonzola. The pizza was a beautiful thing to behold with the pillowy charred edges of a highheat Neapolitan pie along with the thin, crispness of a Roman pizza made with olive oil. The first few bites of the creamy base and melting chunks of bleu were memorable and rewarding but as I cut into the third piece, I stopped; realizing that I was flavor-bored -- not disgusted but just tired of the delicious sameness. The strong flavor made my mouth and brain cry for some difference of texture, sweetness or another flavor to break the boredom. Instead of embarrassing myself by speaking up, I nibbled the crust and left the pizzeria on good terms. That day I learned that the fine line between big flavor success and big flavor failure lies with the supporting elements. Call them condiments, garnishes, finishing agents or supporting actors, they all have the potential to put a great big cherry on a big flavor pie! I love big flavors in my pizzeria because they form the base of any complex pizza without sending you to the poor house. For instance, I've noticed that the most bang for the buck in any grocery store is a 13-cent habañero pepper. But before I put a whole habañero on a pie and blow someone's face off, I'd rather pair it with some other toppings, sauces or flavors like 4 0 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / O C T O B E R 2 0 1 6 lemon, sugar, onions, wheat, tomato, fish or pork. I use big-flavored cheeses and pestos paired with my béchamel sauce to blast a pie into wonderland without costing an arm and a leg. Below are some of the ways you can create best supporting actors to big flavors: Sweet and savory: Sweet and savory: Creating an "agrodolce" effect helps temper big flavors. This Italian term for sweet and sour works well on the wheaty platform of a pizza. (The added effect of a nice char rockets this flavor into heaven.) Fruit compotes and jams provide a decent finishing agent to big sour cheeses, and fat savory meats like lardo and guanciale add complexity to vegetable-heavy pies. Texture: Pizza is a play on textures with melt, liquid and crunch. This can be multiplied by the pull of an aged mozzarella, creamy cold stracciatella as a finish, punchy arugula, crunchy walnuts or toasted pignoli (pine nuts). I even have the crunchy hot Korean kimchi in my menu mix, which works wonders with melting provolone. Vegetable Counterpoints: After competing in Italy, I've fallen in love with finishing pizzas with edible flowers, stuffed sweet and sour peppers, spicy greens that hold up to the heat of a just-finished pie and salsas, pestos, pickled garlic, carrots and even dill pickles. Color: People eat with their eyes and colorful foods add an extra "wow" factor to any big-flavored pizza. Even a bright red tomato concasse or thin yellow peppers can transform a "blah" pizza to a wow pie. Foil: A lot of chefs, bakers and pizza makers may overlook the fact that opposites really do attract! For example, consider: cream and lemon; salty olives and jam; tuna and veal; anchovy and white truffle and chorizo and blueberry are all combinations with much history. Most of these adventurous combinations are enhanced even more when other attractive components tie them together. Here are some cool and attractive co-stars to these big flavors: Chorizo: Onion; blueberry; sweet peppers; eggplant; apple; beans; thyme; tomatoes; chicken; chili; kale; clams; potatoes; garlic and herbs. Leek: Artichoke; Parmesan; dill; lemon zest; chicken; goat cheese; Gruyere; butter; chives; cream; garlic; oregano; tarragon; balsamic; chicken stock; thyme; potatoes; egg; bacon; anchovy; cauliflower; caraway; celery; oyster mushroom; black pepper; soy sauce; crème fraiche and cream sauce. Shrimp: Basil; anchovy; garlic; coconut; arugula; avocado; bacon; crab; cream; curry; cilantro; chili peppers; celery and root; lemon; mushroom; mint; bay leaf; artichokes; basil; butter; ginger; parsley; onion,; sesame; tomato; thyme; scallions; clams and cinnamon. Italian sausage: Fennel; orange; Gorgonzola; fontina; onion; potato; radicchio; beans; rosemary; tomato; arugula; basil; fennel; celery; garlic; pepperoni; lemon juice; cream; apples; lentil; oregano; shallot; parsley; mustard; broccoli rabe; bell pepper and carrot. http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - October 2016

Pizza Today - October 2016
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Respecting the Craft
On Tap
Destinations
Dough Doctor
Attracting Investors
Pizza & Pasta Northeast
2016 Hot 100 Independents
Ciao!, Baby
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - October 2016 - CT1
Pizza Today - October 2016 - CT2
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Pizza Today - October 2016
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Cover2
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Commentary
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 4
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 5
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Contents
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 7
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 8
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 9
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Contributors
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 11
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 13
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Interact
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 15
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Conversation
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 17
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 19
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Respecting the Craft
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 21
Pizza Today - October 2016 - On Tap
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 23
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Destinations
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 25
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Dough Doctor
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 27
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 28
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 29
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 30
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 31
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 32
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 33
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 34
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 35
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 36
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 37
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 38
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 39
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 40
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 41
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 42
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 43
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Attracting Investors
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 45
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 46
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 47
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Pizza & Pasta Northeast
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 49
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 50
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 51
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 2016 Hot 100 Independents
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 53
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 54
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 55
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Ciao!, Baby
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 57
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 58
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 59
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 60
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 62
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 63
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 65
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 66
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 67
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 68
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 69
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 70
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 71
Pizza Today - October 2016 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 73
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 74
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 75
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 76
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 77
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 78
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 79
Pizza Today - October 2016 - 80
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Cover3
Pizza Today - October 2016 - Cover4
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