Pizza Today - March 2017 - 30

why frozen dough always has a softer,
more extensible feel to it. The ice crystals
formed during the freezing process
rupture some of the yeast cells, allowing
the glutathione to leach out of the cell
and act as a reducing agent. Dead yeast
is a very effective dough-reducing agent.
And because it is derived from yeast,
and since all yeast contains glutathione,
if you need to label your pizzas the dead
yeast reducing agent can be shown right
along with the live yeast that you are
also adding to your dough. In essence,
it doesn't show up as another ingredient
on a package label/ingredient declaration. It is also completely natural if that
is important to you. I like to say that
glutathione is a "first cousin" to L-cysteine since they are both amino acids and
they work in almost an identical manner
when it comes to reducing snap-back/
memory in the dough. So the same precautions must be followed when using
dead yeast as one would use when using
an L-cysteine based reducing agent.

3 0 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / M A R C H 2 0 1 7

* Onion and garlic. Both onion and

garlic exert a reducing effect upon the
dough, making it softer and more extensible with reduced dough snap-back.
As little as .25 percent, either individually or in combination of onion and/
or garlic powder, will effectively reduce
dough snap-back. But it brings baggage
in the form of flavor and aroma that
may or may not be desirable. If it is not
desirable to have the characteristic flavor,
a deodorized form of these ingredients
(referred to as deodorized vegetable
powder) is available from many wholesale bakery ingredient suppliers. This
works equally as well but without the
onion/garlic flavor. A unique aspect of
using onion/garlic as a reducing agent
is that it is all but impossible to really
overdose a dough when using it. This
is because of the way it interacts with
the proteins, so there is only a limited
amount of dough softening/relaxing
achieved with its use. While the amount
of relaxing is limited, it is usually sufficient to give the desired result in

reducing dough snap-back/memory
when opening the dough into pizza
skins.
Excessive dough memory is pretty easy to address either through
formulation, dough management
or additive ingredients. Some of our

readers may be forming their pizza skins
by use of a hot or cold pizza press. If you
are in this group, this article should be of
special interest to you as dough snapback/memory can be a bit problematic when using this forming method.
Whatever your forming method, use just
enough of the selected reducing agent to
address the snap-back/memory problem.
This is a case where more is not better
as it can get you into trouble as fast as it
can get you out if not used wisely. n
TOM LEHMANN is

a former director at
the American Institute of Baking in
Manhattan, Kansas and Pizza Today's
resident dough expert.


http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - March 2017

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - March 2017

Pizza Today - March 2017
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Respecting the Craft
On Tap
Destinations
Knead to Know
Menu Strategies
Tabletop Condiments
Brand With Merchandise
Speeding Up Service
America’s No. 1 Topping: Pepperoni
Neo vs. Neapolitan
How To Change Products
Dessert Pizzas
Up-to-Date Financials
Upgrading Tech
Analyzing Competition
What is Baker’s Lung?
Start Up Stories
Community Partnerships
Vital Sanitization
Road to Expo: Doug Ferriman and George Hadjis
Unemployment Claims
Pizza Today on the Road: Theo’s, New Orleans, LA
Pizza Today on the Road: Pupatella, Arlington, VA.
Pizza Today on the Road: Pizzeria Paradiso, Washington D.C.
Preferred Supplier
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - March 2017 - CT1
Pizza Today - March 2017 - CT2
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today - March 2017
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Cover2
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Commentary
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 4
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 5
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Contents
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 7
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 8
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 9
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Contributors
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 11
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 13
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Interact
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 15
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Conversation
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 17
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 19
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Respecting the Craft
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 21
Pizza Today - March 2017 - On Tap
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 23
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Destinations
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 25
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 27
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 28
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 29
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 30
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 31
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Menu Strategies
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 33
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 34
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 35
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Tabletop Condiments
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 37
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 38
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 39
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Brand With Merchandise
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 41
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 42
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 43
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Speeding Up Service
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 45
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 46
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 47
Pizza Today - March 2017 - America’s No. 1 Topping: Pepperoni
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 49
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 50
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 51
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Neo vs. Neapolitan
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 53
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 54
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 55
Pizza Today - March 2017 - How To Change Products
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 57
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 58
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 59
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Dessert Pizzas
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 61
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 62
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 63
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 64
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 65
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Up-to-Date Financials
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 67
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 68
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 69
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Upgrading Tech
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 71
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 72
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 73
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Analyzing Competition
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 75
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 76
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 77
Pizza Today - March 2017 - What is Baker’s Lung?
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 79
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 80
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 81
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Start Up Stories
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 83
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 84
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 85
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Community Partnerships
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 87
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 88
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 89
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Vital Sanitization
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 91
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 92
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 93
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Road to Expo: Doug Ferriman and George Hadjis
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 95
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 96
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 97
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Unemployment Claims
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 99
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 100
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 101
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today on the Road: Theo’s, New Orleans, LA
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 103
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 104
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 105
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 106
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 107
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 108
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 109
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today on the Road: Pupatella, Arlington, VA.
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 111
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 112
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 113
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 114
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 115
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today on the Road: Pizzeria Paradiso, Washington D.C.
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 117
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 118
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 119
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 120
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 121
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Preferred Supplier
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 123
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 124
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 125
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 126
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 127
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 128
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 129
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 130
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 131
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 132
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 133
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 134
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 135
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 136
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 137
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 138
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 139
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 140
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 141
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 142
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 143
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 144
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 145
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 147
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 148
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 149
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 150
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 151
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 152
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 153
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 154
Pizza Today - March 2017 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 156
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 157
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 158
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 159
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 160
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 161
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 162
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 163
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 164
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 165
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 166
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 167
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 168
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