Pizza Today - March 2017 - 54

politan pizza and its tradition, but their
communities don't want it."
The biggest problem customers have
with Neapolitan pizza is a direct result of
the style's strict rules. Pizzas are required
to bake at a high temperature (905 F) for
an extremely short amount of time (60 to
90 seconds), so pizzas are often slightly
wet in the center. This isn't an issue in
Naples, where each pizza is served uncut
to a single person. The problems occur
when these personal pies are cut into
slices, which have trouble holding the
weight and moisture of their toppings.
There's one thing Neapolitan pizza lacks
that Americans love: stability.
Enter the NEOpolitan pizza.
Customers "want (their pizza) to look

Another method is baking pizzas for
a longer time at a lower temperature
than their Neapolitan counterparts.
David Sheridan taught himself to bake
pizza in a wood-fired oven he built in
his Brooklyn backyard, but opted for an
electric oven when he opened Wheated in
2012. "The texture I get from a three- to
four-minute bake at 700 degrees is more
dependable than the super-fast bake I
was getting from the wood-fired oven,"
says Sheridan, who prefers "not feeling
chained by any tradition."
Sales of medium-temp ovens indicate
that America's penchant for NEOpolitan
pizza is clearly on the rise. Anthony Pilla,
head of business development for oven
company Marra Forni, says that gas-fired
ovens accounted for 75 percent of the
company's sales last year. Lower temperature and easier operation make gas-fired a
great tool for this user-friendly version of
the Italian original.
Wood Stone, an open-hearth oven
producer, began as a wood-fired oven
company but now sells far more gas-fired
ovens. Wood Stone's corporate chef, Michael Brockman, has personally witnessed
pizzerias' conversion from strict Neapolitan to the sturdier NEOpolitan. "A lot of
our clients started making Neapolitan but

ditched the sub two-minute bake because
their customers wanted crunch."
"It can still be good, but it's not Neapolitan," says APN Americas president
Roberto Caporuscio, of pizzas baked at
temperatures lower than the Neapolitan
requirements. The AVPN, on the other
hand, recently added a special provision
for gas-fired ovens to their certification
options. Caporuscio also points out that
the texture of a pizza's base is not only
dependent on the time and temperature
of the bake, but also on how the dough
was handled. "Neapolitan pizza requires
a soft and gentle stretch" to maintain
gas retention in the dough. Aggressive
methods like hand tossing and rolling
pins result in a denser product, which may
be preferable to some customers.
The terms NEOpolitan, neo-Neapolitan, American Artisan and neo Classica
do not identify an intentional style, but
describe a larger genre that's distinct
from Neapolitan pizza. In a sense, they
employ the same adaptations that took
place when pizza first came to the United
States. n

Neapolitan, but they're American, so they
want crunch," says Anthony Falco, former
pizza czar at Roberta's Pizza in Brooklyn.
Their individual 12-inch pies are baked in
a wood-fired oven with carefully selected
toppings, but they do not conform to the
demands of the Neapolitan playbook.
"Everyone wants higher-quality products
and better food experiences, but NeaSCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott's
politan pizza doesn't make sense to (all)
Pizza Tours in New York City and
Americans." Falco describes the pizza
SliceOutHunger.org.
at Roberta's as "American pizza using
Italian techniques."
If Neapolitan pizza
The Official Journal of the European Union requires an extremely strict set of standards for Pizza Napoletana
is the springboard,
STG. This chart demonstrates the level of necessity for Neapolitan pizza as compared to the common characteristics
NEOpolitan pizza is
of NEOpolitan pizza based on the STG guidelines.
the landing pad.
NEOpolitan pizza
Neapolitan
NEOpolitan
makers use several
Diameter
13.8 inches max
~12 inches
methods to achieve
Thickness
Raised rim
Raised or flat rim
a sturdier base, each
of which violates the
Dough Weight
180 - 250 g
~275 g
Neapolitan pizza
May include add. ingredients
Dough Ingredients
ONLY flour, salt, water, yeast
code. One is blendOven
Requires wood-fired oven
Any oven
ing traditional soft
Temperature
Oven floor ~905 F
Oven floor 700 to 800 F
Italian flour with
strong American
Tomatoes
Whole peeled plum tomatoes
Any tomato product
flour. Roberta's blends
Sauce Preparation
Salted, uncooked
Any preparation
Caputo's "00" PizFresh cows' milk or buffalo mozz
Any cheese
Cheese
zeria flour with King
Bake Time
60 to 90 seconds
Usually over 120 seconds
Arthur's Sir Galahad
to achieve a crust that
Stretch Method
Gentle extension
Any method
doesn't flop.

5 4 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / M A R C H 2 0 1 7


http://www.SliceOutHunger.org http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - March 2017

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - March 2017

Pizza Today - March 2017
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Respecting the Craft
On Tap
Destinations
Knead to Know
Menu Strategies
Tabletop Condiments
Brand With Merchandise
Speeding Up Service
America’s No. 1 Topping: Pepperoni
Neo vs. Neapolitan
How To Change Products
Dessert Pizzas
Up-to-Date Financials
Upgrading Tech
Analyzing Competition
What is Baker’s Lung?
Start Up Stories
Community Partnerships
Vital Sanitization
Road to Expo: Doug Ferriman and George Hadjis
Unemployment Claims
Pizza Today on the Road: Theo’s, New Orleans, LA
Pizza Today on the Road: Pupatella, Arlington, VA.
Pizza Today on the Road: Pizzeria Paradiso, Washington D.C.
Preferred Supplier
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - March 2017 - CT1
Pizza Today - March 2017 - CT2
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today - March 2017
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Cover2
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Commentary
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 4
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 5
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Contents
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 7
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 8
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 9
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Contributors
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 11
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 13
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Interact
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 15
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Conversation
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 17
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 19
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Respecting the Craft
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 21
Pizza Today - March 2017 - On Tap
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 23
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Destinations
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 25
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 27
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 28
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 29
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 30
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 31
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Menu Strategies
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 33
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 34
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 35
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Tabletop Condiments
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 37
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 38
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 39
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Brand With Merchandise
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 41
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 42
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 43
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Speeding Up Service
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 45
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 46
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 47
Pizza Today - March 2017 - America’s No. 1 Topping: Pepperoni
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 49
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 50
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 51
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Neo vs. Neapolitan
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 53
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 54
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 55
Pizza Today - March 2017 - How To Change Products
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 57
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 58
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 59
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Dessert Pizzas
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 61
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 62
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 63
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 64
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 65
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Up-to-Date Financials
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 67
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 68
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 69
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Upgrading Tech
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 71
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 72
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 73
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Analyzing Competition
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 75
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 76
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 77
Pizza Today - March 2017 - What is Baker’s Lung?
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 79
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 80
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 81
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Start Up Stories
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 83
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 84
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 85
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Community Partnerships
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 87
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 88
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 89
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Vital Sanitization
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 91
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 92
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 93
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Road to Expo: Doug Ferriman and George Hadjis
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 95
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 96
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 97
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Unemployment Claims
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 99
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 100
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 101
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today on the Road: Theo’s, New Orleans, LA
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 103
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 104
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 105
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 106
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 107
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 108
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 109
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today on the Road: Pupatella, Arlington, VA.
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 111
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 112
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 113
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 114
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 115
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today on the Road: Pizzeria Paradiso, Washington D.C.
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 117
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 118
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 119
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 120
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 121
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Preferred Supplier
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 123
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 124
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 125
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 126
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 127
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 128
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 129
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 130
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 131
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 132
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 133
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 134
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 135
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 136
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 137
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 138
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 139
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 140
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 141
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 142
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 143
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 144
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 145
Pizza Today - March 2017 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 147
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 148
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 149
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 150
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 151
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 152
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 153
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 154
Pizza Today - March 2017 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 156
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 157
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 158
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 159
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 160
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 161
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 162
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 163
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 164
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 165
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 166
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 167
Pizza Today - March 2017 - 168
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Pizza Today - March 2017 - Trending Recipe
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