Pizza Today - June 2017 - 26

knead to know

with JOHN ARENA

I
AUTO PILOT
How the autolyse method
can improve your dough

2 6 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / J U N E 2 0 1 7

n today's hyper
competitive market
consumers are much
more knowledgeable
and demanding. This has been
great for our industry because
it has caused us to look outside
of our own insular world for
methods and formulas that
have the potential to improve
our products.
In the old days, back in Italy,
dough was mixed by hand in
a wooden box referred to as la
madia. This method allowed
the pizza maker to use a sense
of touch to coax the optimal
results from the ingredients.
Renowned pizza makers such
as Franco Pepe still adhere to
this philosophy of minimal
mechanical intrusion on the
process.
In the U.S., the first pizza
makers used what is called
direct method dough formulas.
This means that ingredients
were combined, mixed, and
then divided and rounded perhaps with a very short bench
rest. The dough balls would
then be covered and allowed to
rise for use later in the day.
This method certainly works
and has the advantage of being
easy to teach and execute. The
challenge for us as operators is
how to improve our products
in a manageable way. The best
recipe in the world can be
undermined if it is not simple
to consistently reproduce.
The goal of mixing is three
fold:
1) Incorporate the ingredients
2) Develop gluten 3) Initiate
fermentation.
For pizza dough, the most
common mixing methods are
the simplified method and the
improved method. The simplified method is a long mix at
slow speed that is gentle on
the dough. Many pizza mak-

ers prefer this method, and I
recommend it - especially if
using a planetary mixer, which
is most common in American pizzerias. The improved
method utilizes two speeds
in the process. Slow speed
to combine ingredients and
then faster speed to finish
the dough and develop the
proteins. With either method
the goal is to avoid excessive
friction, which will oxidize the
dough and toughen the gluten.
Enter autolyse. Perhaps
the simplest way to improve
your dough without reinventing the wheel is to incorporate this simple artisan bread
baking technique. Autolyse
has been in widespread use by
bakers since the 1970s. This
operator friendly method of
mixing dough was developed
by renowned French baking
instructor Raymond Calvel in
an effort to reinvigorate the
bread culture of France that
had suffered from industrialization. In recent years the
most recognized names in the
pizza industry have discovered
that they can dramatically
improve the texture, flavor and
even the color of finished pizzas with this technique.
Autolyse, in its most basic
form, is simply incorporating
the flour and water in your
formula and then letting it
rest in the bowl for up to 30
minutes before adding the additional ingredients and completing the mix. During this
resting period the flour will
have improved absorption of
water and increased enzymatic
activity will be promoted.
The resulting enzymes will
enhance flavor and break down
carbohydrates, producing
simple sugars to feed the yeast.
An added benefit to using this


http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - June 2017

Pizza Today - June 2017
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Respecting the Craft
On Tap
Destinations
Knead to Know
Turn Down the Sound
Pizza Style Guide
Adding Sustainable Food
Caprese Across the Menu
Employee Reviews
Increasing Check Averages
Pizza Today on the Road: Harry’s Bishops Corner, West Hartford, CT
Pizza Today on the Road: The Original Vazzy’s, Bridgeport, CT
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - June 2017 - CT1
Pizza Today - June 2017 - CT2
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Pizza Today - June 2017
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Cover2
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Commentary
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 4
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 5
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Contents
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 7
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 8
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 9
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Contributors
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 11
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 13
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Interact
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 15
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Conversation
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 17
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 19
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Respecting the Craft
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 21
Pizza Today - June 2017 - On Tap
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 23
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Destinations
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 25
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 27
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 28
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 29
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Turn Down the Sound
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 31
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 32
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 33
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Pizza Style Guide
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 35
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 36
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 37
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Adding Sustainable Food
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 39
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 40
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 41
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Caprese Across the Menu
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 43
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Employee Reviews
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 45
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 46
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 47
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Increasing Check Averages
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 49
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 50
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 51
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Pizza Today on the Road: Harry’s Bishops Corner, West Hartford, CT
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 53
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 54
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 55
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 56
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 57
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 58
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 59
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Pizza Today on the Road: The Original Vazzy’s, Bridgeport, CT
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 62
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 63
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 65
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 66
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 67
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 68
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 69
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 70
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 71
Pizza Today - June 2017 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 73
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 74
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 75
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 76
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 77
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 78
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 79
Pizza Today - June 2017 - 80
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Cover3
Pizza Today - June 2017 - Cover4
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202004
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202003
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202002
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202001
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201912
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201911
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201909
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201908
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201907
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201906
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201905
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201904
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201903
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201902
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201901
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201812
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201811
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201810
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201809
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201808
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201807
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201806
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201805
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201804
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201803
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201802
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201801
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201712
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201711
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201710
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201709
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201707
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201706
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201705
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201704
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201703
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201702
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201701
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201612
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201611
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201610
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201609
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201608
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201607
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201606
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201605
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201604
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201603
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201602
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201601
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201512
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201511
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201510
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201509
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201508
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201507
http://www.nxtbookMEDIA.com