Pizza Today - August 2017 - 57

seven at a time ... it's a long process, but some of
our best pizza guys have started off as dishwashers. They've risen up through the ranks."
Jerrier says tossing the dough up in the air --
somewhat of a staple move for display kitchens
-- is nearly impossible with Cane Rosso's dough,
which he admits is difficult to work with. "We
do a 30-hour ambient-temperature proof, and we
don't refrigerate it. It's really soft, and really sticky.
It's hard to throw around, because it will tear. You
have to be very gentle with it.
"I always tell people (we're) kind of like a football team. You're trying to find skilled positions
(like hiring) a wide receiver, or a quarterback, not
just some guy to do heavy lifting. And it's a very
skilled position. It's a ton of work. You've got guys
(who say) 'Well, I can make a dollar less an hour
at Domino's where I can just put a pizza on a
conveyor belt and I don't have to work that hard'
versus here, where on a Friday or Saturday night
the guys who are working are beasts. It's amazing
to watch them work.
"Nobody who works here makes minimum
wage. (The company employs about 40 to 50
people per store.) Anybody you hire who's making minimum wage, they're looking for another
job. And here they work hard and they hustle and
we do want to get them on board. ... We pay a
higher wage, but we have higher expectations."
Labor costs run around the industry average
of 30 to 32 percent, "but we hire guys who work
hard," Jerrier says.
Out of those massive ovens comes an
extensive menu helmed by master pizzaiolo and executive chef Dino Santonicola, who hails from Naples and has been with

Cane Rosso nearly since its inception. "From the
very beginning, I tried to bring in people I knew
could help get me there," Jerrier says, adding
that he'd drop his kids off at school and be at
the restaurant until 1:30 or 2 a.m. During Cane
Rosso's early days, Jerrier was doing most of the
prep and cooking himself. He hired Santonicola,
and soon after his director of operations, Megan
Santonicola, who met and married her husband
while working for the company. The Santonicolas
took over operations of the Dallas/Fort Worth
stores. Jerrier has a separate team, Joe Gibbons
and Jonathan Jones, operating Houston, Austin
and South Texas. "Because we do so much volume, it's too hard to have that span of control for
both," Jerrier says.
Although the company has multiple units,

"WE DO A
30-HOUR
AMBIENTTEMPERATURE
PROOF (WITH
THE DOUGH),
AND WE DON'T
REFRIGERATE IT.
IT'S REALLY SOFT,
AND REALLY
STICKY. IT'S
HARD TO THROW
AROUND,
BECAUSE IT WILL
TEAR. YOU HAVE
TO BE VERY
GENTLE WITH IT."

"

TOP TO BOTOM (L TO R): DELIA
spicy bacon marmalade, roasted
grape tomatoes, arugula & housemade mozzarella THE EDGAR dessert pizza with vanilla bean mascarpone, nutella, toasted marshmallows
& powdered sugar VEGETALE San
Marzanos, housemade mozzarella &
seasonal vegetables FRIDAY NIGHT
FRANKIE pepperoni, jalapeños, San
Marzanos, housemade mozzarella &
grated Parmesan. THE BETTY sausage, prosciutto crudo, bolognese,
ricotta & housemade mozzarella THE
HONEY BASTARD hot soppressata, bacon marmalade jam & hot
habañero honey.

they're still making everything on site at each
store. Dine-in accounts for 80 percent of
sales. Delivery makes up just a small percentage of the company's business.
Says Jerrier: "We looked at doing a commissary, but for us like in Dallas, the 'cow
was out of the barn.' We had five restaurants
and they all had kitchens. It would help from
a consistency standpoint to control things a
little better, but at this point, we just haven't
pulled the trigger yet" due to high real estate
costs in Dallas, where it's hard to justify the
cost of the build-out when employees are
already trained in-house.
Most importantly, dough is still made at
each store, and it has evolved since our last
visit to Cane Rosso, Jerrier says. "I was lazy,
and I wasn't skilled. We would do a refrigerated proof and the dough was cold. We'd
put it in the oven, just because it was easier
to stretch. Now, we'll mix it by batch, ball it
up and let it proof at room temperature with
tiny amounts of yeast so it develops a lot of
flavor. It's sticky and soft, so it's really hard to
work with, but I think it makes better pizza."
Cane Rosso goes through so much dough
that it is able to get private-label flour and
they have their own Italian tomatoes. "We
hand-mill the tomatoes with a food mill and
salt and that's it," Jerrier says. "We make our
cheese from curd. It's a lot of work. That's
our highest turnover position. Those guys
have to keep their hands in 180-degree water
to stretch that cheese."
Jerrier admits there are a lot of ways to cut
corners in the pizza business, "but it results
in a product that's not as good," he says.
Cane Rosso's food costs run around
19 to 21 percent. Making so much in house,
how do they keep that cost down? "We sell
primarily pizza," Jerrier says. "Even though
we use high-end ingredients and we're making Neapolitan pizza, we're not putting stuff
edge to edge. In a wood oven, even when
we use good salumi, it's better to cut it really
thin. ... While we put lots of toppings on,
and they're good toppings, the way we cut
them and the way we use them -- when
you're making pizza, they should be low."
Cheese is the company's No. 1 expense,
and Jerrier says they save nearly $2 a pound
by making their own.
"Even though the Italian flour is more
expensive than some American flours, it's
A U G U S T 2 0 1 7 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / 5 7


http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - August 2017

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - August 2017

Pizza Today - August 2017
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Respecting the Craft
On Tap
Destinations
Knead to Know
Soda Machines
Grilled Pizzas
Entrée Salads
Balsamic Vinegar
Promoting Victories
Road to Pizza & Pasta Northeast: It’s not too late to enter competitions
2017 Independent Pizzeria of the Year: Cane Rosso, Dallas, TX
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - August 2017 - CT1
Pizza Today - August 2017 - CT2
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Pizza Today - August 2017
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Cover2
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Commentary
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 4
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 5
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Contents
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 7
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 8
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 9
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Contributors
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 11
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 13
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Interact
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 15
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Conversation
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 17
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 19
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Respecting the Craft
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 21
Pizza Today - August 2017 - On Tap
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 23
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Destinations
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 25
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 27
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 28
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 29
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Soda Machines
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 31
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 32
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 33
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Grilled Pizzas
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 35
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 36
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 37
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Entrée Salads
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 39
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Balsamic Vinegar
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 41
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 42
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 43
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Promoting Victories
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 45
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 46
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 47
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Road to Pizza & Pasta Northeast: It’s not too late to enter competitions
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 49
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 50
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 51
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 2017 Independent Pizzeria of the Year: Cane Rosso, Dallas, TX
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 53
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 54
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 55
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 56
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 57
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 58
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 59
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 60
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 62
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 63
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 65
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 66
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 67
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 68
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 69
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 70
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 71
Pizza Today - August 2017 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 73
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 74
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 75
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 76
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 77
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 78
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 79
Pizza Today - August 2017 - 80
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - August 2017 - Trending Recipe
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Pizza Today - August 2017 - Cover4
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