Pizza Today - December 2017 - 48

ROAD
TO
EXPO

Secrets of the Dough Masters
PIZZA CRUST WHI ZZES APPEAR MARCH 21 AT PIZZA EXPO

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NANCY SILVERTON

BRIAN SPANGLER

uring the past 10 years a number
of new pizza superstars have
emerged throughout the country.
They've helped elevate the stature of pizza
beyond everyday comfort food to something
that can also be very special, even memorable.
Two of these stars are Nancy Silverton,
of Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles, and Brian
Spangler, of Apizza Scholls in Portland,
Oregon. I'm very excited that both agreed
to join me on the stage at Pizza Expo 2018
to talk about all aspects of their pizza vision
- and especially about their doughs, which
are distinctly different from one another and
also from those of pretty much everyone
else.
It has long been my contention that at
least 80 percent of what separates a merely
good pizza from a transcendent, great one
is the crust. (Some have even said it's 90
percent.) While Nancy's pizzas are equally
famous for her creative and amazing topping
concepts, I still believe that Pizzeria Mozza
would not have emerged as one of the
greatest pizzerias in the world if it were not
for her crust. I know from having seen how
this dough is made that it is not a simple
process. (If it were, everyone would be copying it.) Nancy was the founder of LaBrea
Breads, perhaps the greatest success story
of America's artisan bread movement, and
she follows sound artisan-bread principles
with her pizza dough. Perhaps we'll be
able to learn from her just what guided the
choices she made in creating her formula,

BY PETER REIN HA RT

which produces one of my absolute favorite
Neapolitan-inspired, wood-fired pizzas from
anywhere in the world.
Brian Spangler also emerged from the
artisan bread community, translating his
skill and understanding of fermentation into
a dough that works in the style of traditional
New York and New Haven pizzas. It does
not rely on wood-fired ovens, performing
instead in high-powered, standard deck
ovens. Doing business in Portland, a city as
competitive as they come for restaurants,
food trucks and especially pizza (I can think
of three - no make that four - pizzerias
in Portland alone that score in my top 20),
Apizza Scholls consistently ranks among the
greatest American pizzerias on nearly every
national survey. Again, it all begins with
the crust, and with their great toppings as a
bonus, everyone I've sent to Apizza Scholls
has called the experience memorable.
So as you can see, I am really looking forward to spending an hour-plus with Nancy
and Brian when we all gather in Las Vegas
for Pizza Expo 2018. I hope many of you will
join us as well. As I'm sure you all agree, it's
never too late to learn something new.
Peter Reinhart is the author of "American
Pie: My Search for the Perfect Pizza" and
host of PizzaQuest.com, a video Web site
devoted to the search for perfect pizza. He
is a faculty member and baking instructor
at Johnson & Wales University in Charlotte,
NC. He'll host Nancy Silverton and Brian
Spangler at Pizza Expo on Wednesday,
March 21, from 9:45 - 11 am.

Registration is now OPEN! - Visit PizzaExpo.com for more information.
4 8 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 7


http://www.PizzaExpo.com http://www.PizzaQuest.com http://www.PizzaExpo.com http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - December 2017

Pizza Today - December 2017
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Conversation
Man on the Street
Respecting the Craft
Respecting the Craft
At Your Service
Destinations
Destinations
Knead to Know
Pizza & Pasta Northeast Recap
Road to Pizza Expo
Menu Guide
2018 Menu Guide
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Mike’s Monthy Tip
Pizza Today - December 2017 - CT1
Pizza Today - December 2017 - CT2
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Pizza Today - December 2017
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Cover2
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Commentary
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 4
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 5
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 6
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 7
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Contents
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 9
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Contributors
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 11
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 13
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Interact
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 15
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Conversation
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 17
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 19
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Respecting the Craft
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 21
Pizza Today - December 2017 - At Your Service
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 23
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Destinations
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 25
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 27
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 28
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 29
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 30
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 31
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 32
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 33
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 34
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 35
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 36
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 37
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 38
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 39
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 40
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 41
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 42
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 43
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Pizza & Pasta Northeast Recap
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 45
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Road to Pizza Expo
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 47
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 48
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 49
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 2018 Menu Guide
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 51
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 52
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 53
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 54
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 55
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 56
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 57
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 58
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 59
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 60
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 61
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 62
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 63
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 64
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 65
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 66
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 67
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 68
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 69
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 70
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 71
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 72
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 73
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 74
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 76
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 77
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 79
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 80
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 81
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 82
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 83
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 84
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 85
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 86
Pizza Today - December 2017 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 88
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 89
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 90
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 91
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 92
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 93
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 94
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 95
Pizza Today - December 2017 - 96
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Mike’s Monthy Tip
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Cover3
Pizza Today - December 2017 - Cover4
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