Pizza Today - January 2018 - 35

P

izza classification used to be so
simple; a pie was
either thin or thick.
A pizzeria was
emulating either
New York or Chicago, with all other
regional varieties attributed to one of the
two. Now styles that were once trapped in
their respective regions have gone public.
But judging a pizza by its thickness is never
a good way to accurately gauge what's going
on beyond the crust. The most common
thick pizza styles exhibit stark differences
that delineate them from the others. Let's
examine a few of the most popular.

Sicilian pizza, Grandma pizza dough is
pushed into the corners of a shallow baking
pan. Instead of allowing the dough to rise
until puffy, it's only allowed minimal rest
before being topped and baked. The result is
a short, dense, less bready version of Sicilian
pizza.
While the only true differentiation
between Sicilian and Grandma pizzas is
their relative thicknesses, Grandma pizza
is usually topped sparsely with simple
ingredients like fresh mozzarella, garlic,
and crushed tomato. The crushed tomato
component is the last to be applied, adding
to the pizza's rustic homemade feel.

* SICILIAN PIZZA. With a historical root
in a Sicilian bread called sfincione, literally
translated as sponge, Sicilian pizza emerged
on the streets of New York City in the 20th
century. The pizza is rectangular, with a
thickness of 1 to 1½ inches and an exposed
border crust framing tomato sauce and low
moisture mozzarella. New Yorkers refer
to Sicilian pizzas as "squares" and usually
sell them by the slice at the same price or
slightly more expensive than their triangular
counterparts.
In terms of thickness, the majority of a
Sicilian pizza's height is comprised of its
bready base. A standard New York style pizza dough (flour, salt, water at about 60-percent hydration, yeast and oil) is pushed into
an oiled rectangular pan, where it rises until
cresting the vessel's one-inch height. The
dough can be topped and baked to order
or par-baked, stored, then topped to order.
Par baking allows for swifter service and
produces a crunchier base. One popular
variation called "upside-down" places the
cheese before the sauce, giving emphasis
to the tomato and preventing undercooked
crust by separating it from the base.

end of this distinct pan pizza begins in 1946
at a Detroit bar called Buddy's Rendezvous.
Owner Gus Guerra baked a version of his
mother-in-law's Sicilian pizza in a type of
pan that was used by the automotive industry for small hardware storage and cleaning.
The 2½-inch thick rectangular steel pans
with angled sides transformed a familiar
Sicilian pizza into a unique pizza style that
would eventually burst into the mainstream
nearly 70 years after it first appeared.
Detroit pan pizza dough has a higher
hydration than its Sicilian cousin, at about
70 percent or greater. The dough is pushed
to a level layer in the deep pan and allowed
to rise as high as half the pan's depth. Only
then is it topped, with cheese applied before
tomato sauce, and baked until the cheesy
edges are gently burnt. Unlike Sicilian pizza,
this variation has no exposed crust border
and is sold whole rather than by the slice.
It's the fastest growing thick pizza variation and risks becoming even more popular
outside of its hometown than it is within.
Dozens of pizzerias have opened in the past
few years with Detroit deep-dish pizza as
their focus, and even more have added it to
their existing menus.

* GRANDMA PIZZA (AKA GRANDMA'S
PIZZA OR PIZZA DI NONNA). A modifica-

tion of the Sicilian pizza, Grandma pizza
was the label given to pizzas made by the
matriarchs of Italian households across
the northeastern U.S. throughout the 20th
century. Before pizza stones became a common household item, homemade pizzas
were baked in cookie sheets. Much like the

* DETROIT PAN PIZZA (A.K.A. DETROIT
RED TOP OR DETROIT DEEP-DISH). The leg-

* CHICAGO DEEP-DISH. Many pizza
consumers label all thick pizzas with the
deep-dish moniker, but the Chicago variety
is distinctive. While its thickness can rival
or surpass that of Sicilian, its composure is
more reliant on cheese and toppings than it
is on bread.
The base is biscuit-like in texture and

creeps up the sides of the pan, creating
an enclosure that resembles a piecrust.
Toppings, often referred to as fillings, are
applied in the following order from base to
surface: cheese, toppings and sauce.
Thanks to its thickness and density, a
Chicago deep-dish pizza requires at least
25 minutes at 425 to 500 F. Its thickness
and high ratio of toppings make cutlery the
preferred cutting method.
What separates Chicago deep-dish pizza
most from other thick pizza styles is its
base. Instead of using flour in the 12- to
14-percent protein range, deep dish dough
features a lower protein content of 10½ to
11½ percent and gets only a short mix. This
means the dough will form a light gluten
network, trapping less gas from fermentation than other styles and thus rising
less. Chicago deep dish also has a higher
percentage of fat than the other thick pizzas, hovering around the eight- to 10-percent range as opposed to Sicilian's two- to
three-percent (bakers' percentage). While
other thick pizzas use olive oil or soybean
oil, Chicago deep-dish uses peanut oil. The
resulting dough is putty-like and easily
spread across the base and up the sides of a
2½-inch-deep, round pan.
Jon Porter of Chicago Pizza Tours says
Chicago-stuffed pizza is an entirely different beast than the typical deep-dish pizza
found in the Windy City. Its dough has
more yeast, higher protein and a longer rise
time. After the cheese and toppings, a second sheet of dough is applied and covered
with tomato sauce. The pan and oven are the
same, but stuffed pizza is clearly unique in
the landscape of Chicago pizza variations.
Due to their similar mass, these styles are
all baked in gas-fueled deck ovens at around
400 F to 500 F. Exact dough ratios, pan oils,
sauce preparations and cheese selections are
up for interpretation.
These descriptions should help you stay
accurate when identifying your product,
but think of them more as starting points
than limitations. The beauty of these thick
styles is their ability to provide a canvas for
creative topping combinations, limited only
by your imagination. n
SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott's
Pizza Tours in New York City and
SliceOutHunger.org.
J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 8 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / 3 5


http://www.SliceOutHunger.org http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - January 2018

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - January 2018

Pizza Today - January 2018
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Tony’s Trending Recipe
Tony’s Trending Recipe
At Your Service
Destinations
Knead to Know
Road to Pizza Expo
Red Wagon
Pizza Today on the Road: Red Wagon Pizza Co. Minneapolis, Mn
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Mike’s Monthy Tip
Pizza Today - January 2018 - CT1
Pizza Today - January 2018 - CT2
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Pizza Today - January 2018
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Cover2
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Commentary
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 4
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 5
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 6
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 7
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Contents
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 9
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Contributors
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 11
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 13
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Interact
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 15
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Conversation
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 17
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 19
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Tony’s Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 21
Pizza Today - January 2018 - At Your Service
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 23
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Destinations
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 25
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 27
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 28
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 29
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 30
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 31
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 32
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 33
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 34
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 35
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 36
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 37
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 38
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 39
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 40
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 41
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 42
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 43
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Road to Pizza Expo
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 45
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 46
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 47
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Pizza Today on the Road: Red Wagon Pizza Co. Minneapolis, Mn
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 49
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 50
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 51
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 52
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 54
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 55
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 57
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 58
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 59
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 60
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 61
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 62
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 63
Pizza Today - January 2018 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 65
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 66
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 67
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 68
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 69
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 70
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 71
Pizza Today - January 2018 - 72
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Mike’s Monthy Tip
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Cover3
Pizza Today - January 2018 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202111
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202110
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202109
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202107
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202105
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202101
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202009
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202007
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202006
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/expo_2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202005
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202001
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201911
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201907
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201905
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201903
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201901
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201811
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201807
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201805
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201803
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201801
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201711
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201707
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201706
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201705
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201703
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201701
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201611
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201609
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201606
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201605
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201603
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201601
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201511
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201509
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201507
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com