Pizza Today - May 2018 - 36

IN THE
THE KITCHEN
KITCHEN
IN

THE OOZE
BROTHERS

Are you prepared for the Mozza-pocalypse? // Story John Gutekanst Photos Josh Keown

M

ozzarella is an
island unto itself.
It is one of those
foods that never
needs a
description. Be it
pronounced as
"motsa," "mutz,"
"moosa," or "mozza," the effect is the
same to any hungry listener's muscle
memory. That long, oozy, stringy pull,
deep cream taste and strong chew
needs no further elaboration. Mozzarella is the king of cheese in almost
every pizzeria and for you and me, the
quality of our mozzarella can establish or blemish our reputation, drive
customers either to or from our stores
and - with its deep fluctuations in
price - drive all of us insane and/or
to the poor house.
Despite the cost of serving mozzarella on every pizza, this cheese is
a great accompaniment to countless
pizza toppings because of its mild
taste, which heightens the topping to
taste king and sets the mozzarella back
to a secondary flavor role. The best
asset of mozzarella is its textural melt
and chew, which can be enhanced
with other cheeses to transform the
'mutz' from a predictable pizza into an
extravagant experience.

3 6 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / M AY 2 0 1 8

FIVE HORSEMEN OF THE MOZZAPOCALYPSE

Here are five cheeses to add to mozzarella for a revelatory experience:
* FETA OR CHEVRE. The sour-saltiness of feta and fresh creamed chevre
enhance mozzarella perfectly. Fruit
such as apples, pear, figs and blackberries create a pizza that is heavenly.
Artichoke hearts, spinach, olives,
red onions, tomatoes, garlic lemon,
scallions, sun-dried tomatoes and
mushrooms are great combinations
with goat cheeses, but don't forget balsamic glaze, fig jam, walnuts, almonds,
pistachios and greens to finish these
pies off.
* PECORINO ROMANO. This sheep's
milk cheese was a staple for
Roman legionnaires, but some of
today's Romano is made from cow's
milk. Arugula and walnuts are bodacious with Pecorino, as well as polenta,
Parmigiano, cauliflower, chili peppers, truffles, watercress, mushrooms,
basil and arugula pesto, pears, parsley,
broccoli and sweet bell peppers. These
pizzas can be finished nicely with eggs,
grapes, greens, balsamic, parsley and a
spritz of lemon.
* GORGONZOLA. This big blue adds
the flavorful strength to mozzarellas chewy pull, especially with the
added sweetness and textural qualities of honey, fennel, apples, nuts, fig

jam, persimmon, walnuts and pears.
Caramelized onion, roasted leeks and
pecans also do well on these pizzas.
Don't forget cayenne, celery, dates, dill,
peaches, plums, radishes, thyme, crème
fraiche and mascarpone.
* PEPPER JACK. This semi-soft
cheese melts perfectly with mozzarella
while still giving a great flavor kick.
Bell peppers and chilies go well with
this flavor combination: Tortillas,
(crushed like in my Big Southwest
Beef and Corn Pie recipe) plums,
pumpkin seeds, salsa, pecans, quince
paste, corn, cilantro, basil and beans.
Lime juice and olives, along with swiss
chard, salsa, shredded romaine and
even Korean kimchi, are great finishers
on this pie.
*SMOKED GOUDA. This cheese is
expensive, but small shredded amounts
with mozzarella can be a game
changer. This cheese never melts well
with a long oven time, so add it at the
end of the bake or after the oven. Like
smoked mozzarella, complimentary
toppings can include arugula, roasted
bell peppers, green olives, scallion, tomato, basil, rosemary, spinach, asparagus, artichokes and onions. Finish this
pizza with cherries, apricot and honey,
as well as walnuts, pine nuts and
blackberries. I love any beef topping
with smoked cheeses for a rough and
tumble pizza that you'll never forget.


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Pizza Today - May 2018

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - May 2018

Pizza Today - May 2018
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Tony’s Trending Recipe
At Your Service
Destinations
Knead to Know
First Impressions
The Classic Red Sauce
Mix It With Mozzarella
Delivery Mix-Ups
Pizza Today on the Road: Topp’t Handcrafted Pizzas + Salads New Albany, In
Pizza Expo 2018 Wrap-Up
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Mike’s Monthy Tip
Pizza Today - May 2018 - CT1
Pizza Today - May 2018 - CT2
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Cover1
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Pizza Today - May 2018
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Commentary
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 4
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 5
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Contents
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 7
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 8
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 9
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Contributors
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 11
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 13
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Interact
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 15
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Conversation
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 17
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 19
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Tony’s Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 21
Pizza Today - May 2018 - At Your Service
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 23
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Destinations
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 25
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 27
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 28
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 29
Pizza Today - May 2018 - First Impressions
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 31
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 32
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 33
Pizza Today - May 2018 - The Classic Red Sauce
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 35
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Mix It With Mozzarella
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 37
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 38
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 39
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Delivery Mix-Ups
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 41
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 42
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 43
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Pizza Today on the Road: Topp’t Handcrafted Pizzas + Salads New Albany, In
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 45
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 46
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 47
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Pizza Expo 2018 Wrap-Up
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 49
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 50
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 52
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 53
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 54
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 56
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 57
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 58
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 59
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 60
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 61
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 62
Pizza Today - May 2018 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 64
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 65
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 66
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 67
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 68
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 69
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 70
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 71
Pizza Today - May 2018 - 72
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - May 2018 - Mike’s Monthy Tip
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