Pizza Today - August 2018 - 18

Man on the Street
SCOTT WIENER

Dont't Miss: A Conversation with Anthony Mangieri of Una Pizza Napoletana, with Peter Reinhart, at
Pizza & Pasta Northeast. Photo via Anthony Mangieri

Movers and Shakers
Change is the only constant

L

ast week I had the opportunity to
interview Anthony Mangieri in
front of an audience of pizza makers, ingredient producers and other
assorted industry folk. To say that
Mangieri is a pizzaiolo is insufficient.
His restaurant, Una Pizza Napoletana, is
more of a workshop than an eatery. Fans
follow him as if he were the Grateful
Dead; he moved his pizzeria from the
Jersey shore to Manhattan's East Village
to San Francisco and now back to NYC.
As I asked questions, it became clear that
Mangieri was most interested in talking
about his dough. After more than two
decades of making pizza one would think
Anthony has settled into a clean routine,
but his relentless desire for improvement has led him to a pattern of constant
change.
After a night of what he deems to be
inferior pizzas, Mangieri will take the
1 8 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 8

wrecking ball to his dough. The change
could be as simple as cutting in a new
flour, or as vast as entirely rebuilding his
starter. All the while, customers only
notice the high quality and not so much
the alterations. Una Pizza Napoletana's
pizza is incredibly good despite the fact
that it's always changing.
Hearing Mangieri describe his perpetual evolution made me think about
the necessity for adaptation in all pizzerias. Just think about the places that have
been around for multiple decades. We
have no idea what the pizza tasted like
at Lombardi's Pizzeria Napoletana when
it opened in 1905, but we can be sure it
doesn't taste the same today. Ingredients,
equipment, management and clientele
have most definitely changed. Customers
assume that old establishments stay in
business by staying the course, having no
idea what kind of complex balancing act

is going on behind the curtain.
Just a few years ago one of the
country's leading pizza chains
made waves by announcing that
they were revamping their recipe.
The company didn't do it to combat declining business; they saw a
powerful opportunity to differentiate themselves. This company, with
its thousands of locations, benefitted
by making a change. They even created a massive marketing campaign
around it. Nearly a decade later,
their stock is outperforming that of
Amazon.
One of my favorite Brooklyn
pizzerias brags about maintaining
an unaltered recipe for over 80 years.
It's a family business that perpetuates itself with the requirement that
no owner make any changes in fear
of destroying the family legacy. In
reality, the sauce tastes different in
the summer because they toss in
fresh basil that grows in the front
window. A couple months ago they
even substituted fresh tomatoes
instead of the usual canned product
for about a week because the owner
got a good deal from his produce
dealer. I strongly doubt that anybody
notices these tweaks because they're
more focused on the fact that the
interior hasn't been updated since
the 1960s, and so they assume the
food must also be unaltered.
Staying the same for the purpose
of consistency isn't always a winning
strategy. It's far more powerful to
adapt to inputs over which we have
no control in an effort to provide
customers with a product you can be
proud of. Just ask Anthony Mangieri, who is probably experimenting
with a new flour combination as you
read this. ■
SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott's
Pizza Tours in New York City and
SliceOutHunger.org.


http://www.SliceOutHunger.org http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - August 2018

Pizza Today - August 2018
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Tony’s Trending Recipe
At Your Service
Destinations
Knead to Know
Road to Ppne ‘18
2018 Independent Pizzeria of the Year: Empire Slice House, Oklahoma City, Ok
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Mike’s Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - August 2018 - CT1
Pizza Today - August 2018 - CT2
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Pizza Today - August 2018
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Cover2
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Commentary
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 4
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 5
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 6
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 7
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Contents
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 9
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Contributors
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 11
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 13
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Interact
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 15
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Conversation
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 17
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 19
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Tony’s Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 21
Pizza Today - August 2018 - At Your Service
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 23
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Destinations
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 25
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 27
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 28
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 29
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 30
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 31
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 32
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 33
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 34
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 35
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 36
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 37
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 38
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 39
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 40
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 41
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Road to Ppne ‘18
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 43
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 2018 Independent Pizzeria of the Year: Empire Slice House, Oklahoma City, Ok
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 45
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 46
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 47
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 48
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 49
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 50
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 51
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 53
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 54
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 56
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 57
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 58
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 59
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 60
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 61
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 62
Pizza Today - August 2018 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 64
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 65
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 66
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 67
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 68
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 69
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 70
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 71
Pizza Today - August 2018 - 72
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Mike’s Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Cover3
Pizza Today - August 2018 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202007
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202006
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/expo_2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202005
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202001
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201911
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201907
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201905
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201903
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201901
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201811
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201807
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201805
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201803
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201801
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201711
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201707
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201706
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201705
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201703
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201701
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201611
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201609
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201606
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201605
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201603
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201601
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201511
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201509
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201507
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com