Pizza Today - December 2018 - 18

Man on the Street
SCOTT WIENER

Breaking
Away from the
Family Business
It's not always easy, but
sometimes necessary

W

e all love supporting old
businesses. When people
tell me about a great pizzeria in their town, they always add:
"it's been there forever!" But as much as
longevity is a badge of honor, it can be stifling for younger generations as they start
to take over. Lately I've noticed several
pizza makers dealing with the restrictions
of legacy businesses in creative ways.
The Piccolo family has been making
pizza in the San Francisco Bay area for
over 45 years at Melo's Pizza and Pasta.
They were one of the early purveyors
of New York-style pizza in that region,
cranking out pies from a gas-fueled deck
oven. Manager and second-generation
owner, JP Piccolo, saw the artisan trend
on the rise and didn't want to miss an
opportunity to broaden his menu. Knowing that their gas-fueled oven wasn't
terribly versatile, JP added a second oven
to achieve higher temperatures required
for the new style. He ended up with
an electric unit that can reach over 900
degrees, which lets him offer a new list of
pizzas while keeping the original menu
untouched.
Serhan Ayhan's parents got into the
pizza business after running a quick-serve
salad shop for 20 years. They scored a
dough recipe from a New England pizzeria and opened Boston Pizza in Astoria,
Queens, toward the end of the 1990s.
Serhan didn't know much about pizza
beyond his parents' until recently. The past
few years have transformed him into a
sponge, leading to experimentation with
multiple techniques during off-hours at
1 8 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 8

Serhan Ayhan competes at Pizza & Pasta Northeast.

the family pizzeria. Not wanting to
interfere with the family business,
Serhan convinced his parents to let
him run a monthly Detroit-style pizza
pop-up within the pizzeria. It has
become a massive success and now
Boston Pizza is garnering a reputation
as a pioneer in the neighborhood as
the pop-up becomes a destination for
foodies from all corners of the city.
Sometimes it's impossible to play
with the menu of an existing restaurant without completely transforming
its identity. Frank Tuttolomondo's
grandparents started making pizza on
Manhattan's Upper West Side in 1960
and his family still operates a pizzeria
on Amsterdam and 106th St. The
shop makes classic New York slices,
but Frank knew he could push his
pizza-making skills beyond the norm.
Just like Serhan, he dove deep into
the pool of self-education and ended
up making a pizza that didn't fit into
his family's routine. The problem with

a third-generation slice shop on the
Upper West Side is that making big
changes - or staging a "pop up" -- has
the potential to frighten longtime
customers, so Frank opened his own
pizzeria just one block away from his
family's pizzeria, Mama's, calling it
Mama's Too. His slices are more rustic
and well done than those of the original pizzeria, and he even offers square
pies that combine Rome's Gabrielle
Bonci and the thick pan pizzas of
Detroit. By splitting off into his own
shop, he preserved the family business
while carrying on the name.
It can't be easy going against the
grain of a long-standing family business. I have a ton of reverence for
anyone who has the guts to play with
a format that isn't broken just because
they have the desire to reach a deeper
potential. ■
SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott's
Pizza Tours in New York City and


http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - December 2018

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - December 2018

Pizza Today - December 2018
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Tony’s Trending Recipe
Road to Pizza Expo
Destinations
Knead to Know
Winter Beer Menus
Panini
Marketing Longevity
On The Road: Caliente Pizza & DraftHouse
2019 Menu Guide
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader's Resource
Mike's Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - December 2018 - CT1
Pizza Today - December 2018 - CT2
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Pizza Today - December 2018
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Cover2
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Commentary
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 4
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 5
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Contents
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 7
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 8
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 9
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Contributors
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 11
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 13
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Interact
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 15
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Conversation
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 17
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 19
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Tony’s Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 21
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Road to Pizza Expo
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 23
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Destinations
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 25
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 27
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 28
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 29
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Winter Beer Menus
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 31
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 32
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 33
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Panini
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 35
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 36
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 37
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Marketing Longevity
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 39
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 40
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 41
Pizza Today - December 2018 - On The Road: Caliente Pizza & DraftHouse
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 43
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 44
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 45
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 2019 Menu Guide
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 47
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 48
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 49
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 50
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 51
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 52
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 53
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 54
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 55
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 56
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 57
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 58
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 59
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 60
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 61
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 63
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 64
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 66
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 67
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 68
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 69
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 70
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 71
Pizza Today - December 2018 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 73
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 74
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 75
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 76
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 77
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 78
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 79
Pizza Today - December 2018 - 80
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Reader's Resource
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Mike's Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Cover3
Pizza Today - December 2018 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202112
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202111
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202110
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202109
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202107
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202105
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/pizzatoday/202104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202101
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202009
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202007
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202006
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/expo_2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202005
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/202001
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201911
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201907
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201905
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201903
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201901
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201811
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201807
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201805
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201803
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201801
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201711
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201707
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201706
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201705
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201703
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201701
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201611
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201609
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201606
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201605
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201603
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201601
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201511
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201509
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pizzatoday/201507
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com