Pizza Today - March 2019 - 40

During the fermentation process, we
need to cover every Detroit-style pizza
because the dough will dry out (form
a skin) almost instantly. After the
fermentation process is complete, it is
now time to cheese and top your pizza.
But be careful as the fermented dough
is very delicate.
The beginning of the par bake is
the same as the raw bake. After your
dough has fermented in the pan, it is
now time to par-bake. My goal in parbaking is to bake the dough to roughly
70 percent of the finished product. This
method of par baking helps to create
a solid structure that will in turn help
to withstand the weight of the cheese,
toppings and sauce.
At Blue Pan and Brown Dog Pizza
we do all of our par bakes in the morning before we open for lunch. During
busy times we will have to do a second
round of par bakes after lunch for dinner service.
Looking at your baked pie, the bottom of the crust should be a gorgeous,
spotted, golden-brown. The interior
"crumb" should look like a loosely
woven spider web.
Also like a spider web, when one
picks up a slice of Detroit-style pizza it
should seem light like a feather. Nonetheless, the structural integrity is strong
despite its lightness. After picking up a
slice it should remain level and not sag.
Biting into the pizza, there should be
a nice crunch from the bottom, which
should flow directly into a soft "pillowy"
taste. The taste of the crust should
ultimately remind the eater of warm,
freshly baked bread that is slightly
sweet.
DETROIT-STYLE PIZZA CAN BE BAKED
IN ANY OVEN. Deck ovens were the

original oven used to bake them. However, some of the most famous pizzerias
currently utilize conveyor ovens.
I have also seen some pizzerias use
wood-fired ovens to bake Detroitstyle pizza. I have even enjoyed a tasty
Detroit-style pie prepared in a convection oven (and even at home in a
conventional oven).
Ultimately, use whatever oven you are
4 0 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / M A R C H 2 0 1 8

currently operating. There is no need to
go buy a new oven to experiment with
Detroit-style pizza.
I use the deck ovens because I like
the consistency of the pizza. I also like
that I can control the bake of the pizza.
I can rotate it, move it to "hot spots",
and I can leave it in as short or as long
as I want.
Typically, Detroit-style pizza requires
a higher temperature than New York or
Chicago pizza. The standard is at least
550 F or higher.
For par-baked pizzas, use a lower
temperature for the par bake (450 F550 F), then increase the temperature
for the final bake (550 F-650 F). Raw
baked pizzas most often use a lower
temperature (550 F-600 F).
WHEN GROWING UP, MY GRANDMOTHER WOULD ALWAYS SAY, "IT'S IN
THE SAUCE." SHE WAS PARTLY RIGHT.

For Detroit-style pizza, the real
statement, rather the real question,
should be: where does the sauce go?
While some pizzerias put their sauce
under the cheese, the original placement of sauce for Detroit-style pizza
is putting two strips of sauce, evenly
spaced, on top of the cheese.
The next question is when should the
sauce be applied?
The sauce is usually applied before the
final bake for par-baked pies.
Although gaining recent popularity is
the technique of applying pizza sauce after the final bake (raw bake or par bake).
Most of the older operators in Detroit
will apply their pizza sauce before a raw
bake. If applying after the final bake,
make sure your pizza sauce is in a hot
holding container of 135 F or above.
Sauce is a heavy ingredient for the
pie. When you apply the sauce, it
should be based on the strength of the
dough.
Unlike previous guidance, the right
amount of sauce will be vital to baking
a great Detroit-style pizza.
PEOPLE DON'T KNOW IT, BUT THEY
LOVE CARAMELIZED CHEESE. In fact,

caramelized cheese is what made me a
pizza enthusiast.

The great thing about caramelized
cheese is that it can be done with many
different types of cheese. Brick cheese is
original to Detroit-style pizza. However, mozzarella, aged white cheddar and
muenster cheeses are all used to great
effect as well.
Aged white cheddar and brick
cheeses are good to use around the edge
because it caramelizes into a perfect,
crispy, buttery crust. (Please be cautious
when using Mozzarella as it burns
quickly at high temperature.)
When applying the cheese, put
70 percent of the cheese around the
edge and corners, then place the
remaining 30 percent in the middle. As
the pizza bakes, the cheese will slide to
the middle because of the fats in the
cheese.

Smoke's Detroit-Style Dough
Recipe (makes 4, 8x10 DSP)
High-gluten flour - 16 ounces
Bread flour - 8 ounces
Water (Filtered) - 15.5 ounces
Diastatic malt - 7 grams
Sea salt - 7 grams
Extra virgin olive oil - 14 grams
Active Dry Yeast - 4 grams
Detroit-style pizza pan 8- by 10-inch,
add vegetable shortening to interior
of pan.
Combine flours and malt in mixing
bowl. In a separate bowl whisk
5 ounces of water with the yeast. Start
mixer on low speed. Add ADY/water
mixture. Slowly add remaining water.
Increase mixing speed to medium; mix
for 5 to 6 minutes. Add sea salt and
mix until combined (about 2 minutes).
Add extra virgin olive oil, mix until
combined (about 2-3 minutes). Cover
dough and allow to rest at room temperature for two hours. Then refrigerate dough for 17 to 24 hours.
After that, portion dough into
8.5 ounce dough balls and push dough
in pan. Allow to ferment at room temperature before the par bake. n
JEFF SMOKEVITCH co-founded and
currently operates Brown Dog Pizza and
Blue Pan Pizza in Denver, Colorado.


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Pizza Today - March 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - March 2019

Pizza Today - March 2019
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Tony’s Trending Recipe
Road to Pizza Expo
Destinations
Knead to Know
Learning From Others
Non-Traditional Locations
Pizza Expo Preview
Pizza Head, St. Louis
Mozzapi, Louisville
Preferred Supplier
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - March 2019 - CT1
Pizza Today - March 2019 - CT2
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Pizza Today - March 2019
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Cover2
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Commentary
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 4
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 5
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Contents
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 7
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 8
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 9
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Contributors
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 11
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 13
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Interact
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 15
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Conversation
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 17
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 19
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Tony’s Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 21
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Road to Pizza Expo
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 23
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Destinations
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 25
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 27
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 28
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 29
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 30
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 31
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 32
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 33
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Pizza Today - March 2019 - 50
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 51
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 52
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 53
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 54
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 55
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Learning From Others
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 57
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 58
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 59
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Non-Traditional Locations
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 61
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 62
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 63
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Pizza Expo Preview
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 65
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 66
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 67
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Pizza Head, St. Louis
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 69
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 70
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 71
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 72
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 73
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Mozzapi, Louisville
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 75
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 76
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 77
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 78
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 79
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Preferred Supplier
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 81
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 82
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 83
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 84
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 85
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 86
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Pizza Today - March 2019 - 106
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 107
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 108
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 109
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 111
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 112
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 113
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 114
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 115
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 116
Pizza Today - March 2019 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 118
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 119
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 120
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 121
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 122
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 123
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 124
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 125
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 126
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 127
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 128
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 130
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Cover3
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