Pizza Today - March 2019 - 58

traditional pizzeria still exists at King
Umberto's, but son Johnny continues to
takes things to the next level by looking
for and understanding current trends in
pizza.
After all, pizza is still a business at
the end of the day. And you're either
in business and selling, or you're out of
business. Greatness in the pizza world
stems from a deep passion for the craft
and the product that allows us to be in
business. Johnny Ceserano has both. Not
afraid to push the envelope, Johnny is a
master of social media, networking with
other pizza makers and keeping a finger
on the heartbeat of pizza. He had in the
last year or so trained with a fellow pizza
maker to learn the rectangular Roman
"pizza al metro," or "pizza by the meter,"
and incorporated this onto his menu
immediately.
Although he has his lines he doesn't
cross as a pizza maker, he introduces me
to a popular-selling Buffalo Chicken
5 8 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / M A R C H 2 0 1 9

Pizza, a Zucchini Flower & Ricotta
al Metro pizza, and a spinach crust
Grandma pie with bruschetta toppings.
All non-traditional, yet all selling like
crazy. Each day he allows me to sit
behind the counter, ask questions and
learn from him. He shows me how
he preps, ferments and stretches the
different types of pizza. He explains
his views on his pizza, customers and
customer service, has me try different
pies and then sits me down to try a
creation that he and his brother Ciro
(like the dad) created: Deep Fried
Capellini. It knocks me off my feet. And
it, too, is selling like hot cakes. Johnny is
looking outside the box and keeping his
pizzeria in the 21st Century.
IN THE MORNINGS, I'M BLESSED TO BE
WITH THE FATHER, CIRO, MAKING DOUGH.

It's like being with one of my old uncles.
Three mornings, three different types of
dough, same Ciro. This is history before

me and a mind that just knows from
experience how things should be done.
Slow, steady, methodical and traditional,
Ciro doesn't use precise measuring. Like
many old-school Italian pizza makers, he
knows what he is starting with and the
product he wants to finish with. He uses
sight, smell, touch ... and the end result
is perfection. I ask him how many ounces
and he just holds up a container and says
"This much" in his heavy Italian accent.
Ciro won't use digital scales or dough
scrapers either. He defers to a long,
sharp kitchen knife to slice the dough
into pieces and an old metal balance
scale with a led weight to determine
the proper weight of each ball. Down
in the basement where it is cooler and
the dough can proof better, we roll out
dough balls by hand and place them in
custom-made wood dough boxes for
fermentation. The wooden boxes, the
proofing time, the old dough mixer,
the scale and balling technique are
all time tested and reliable tools that
produce the base product for the modern
interpretation upstairs.
He relays a story to me of his
grandfather, who was a baker in
Italy and Europe, and how he would
bring him espresso as he baked in the
mornings. How he spent that time
with his grandfather as a child and was
introduced to dough and baking. These
are familiar things to him from a time
right after WWII. I ask about yeast
and fermentation in those days and he
explains that every three days or so on
the counter in their kitchen was flour
and water sitting in a bowl waiting for
the natural yeast to kick in so it could
be used to make bread. In his late 70's
Ciro is a treasure to listen to. When the
dough is done, he is also done for the
day. Checking everything before he goes,
he leaves the pizzeria in the hands of his
son.
Next month I'll tell you more in the
second and final installment recapping
my discovery trip to Long Island! n
is the owner of Pietro's
Pizza Kauai in Hawaii.
TOM IANNUCCI


http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - March 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - March 2019

Pizza Today - March 2019
Commentary
Contents
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Interact
Conversation
Man on the Street
Tony’s Trending Recipe
Road to Pizza Expo
Destinations
Knead to Know
Learning From Others
Non-Traditional Locations
Pizza Expo Preview
Pizza Head, St. Louis
Mozzapi, Louisville
Preferred Supplier
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - March 2019 - CT1
Pizza Today - March 2019 - CT2
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Pizza Today - March 2019
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Cover2
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Commentary
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 4
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 5
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Contents
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 7
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 8
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 9
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Contributors
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 11
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 13
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Interact
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 15
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Conversation
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 17
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 19
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Tony’s Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 21
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Road to Pizza Expo
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 23
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Destinations
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 25
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 27
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 28
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 29
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 30
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 31
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 32
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 33
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 34
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 35
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 36
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 37
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 38
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 39
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 40
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 41
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 42
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 43
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 44
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 45
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 46
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 47
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 48
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 49
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 50
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 51
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 52
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 53
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 54
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 55
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Learning From Others
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 57
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 58
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 59
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Non-Traditional Locations
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 61
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 62
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 63
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Pizza Expo Preview
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 65
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 66
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 67
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Pizza Head, St. Louis
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 69
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 70
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 71
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 72
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 73
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Mozzapi, Louisville
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 75
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 76
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 77
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 78
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 79
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Preferred Supplier
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 81
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 82
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 83
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 84
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 85
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 86
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 87
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Pizza Today - March 2019 - 97
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Pizza Today - March 2019 - 104
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 105
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 106
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 107
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 108
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 109
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 111
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 112
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 113
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 114
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 115
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 116
Pizza Today - March 2019 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 118
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 119
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 120
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 121
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 122
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 123
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 124
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 125
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 126
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 127
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 128
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - March 2019 - 130
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Cover3
Pizza Today - March 2019 - Cover4
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