Pizza Today - August 2019 - 16

Man on the Street
SCOTT WIENER

New
Frontiers
in Cheese

I

've got a chip on my shoulder about
cheese. It gets all the attention
despite being the pizza component
that requires the least amount of effort.
You toil over your dough's ingredients
and fermentation schedule. You carefully select the right tomato, applying
the proper seasoning and preparation to
achieve your target result. Cheese is relatively simple. Just shred it up, thrown it
on, and be done with it. Boring. I've never
been very excited about cheese because it
seemed like it required the least amount
of attention. But that's all starting to
change, as I've been witnessing more
pizza makers getting creative with how
they use simple cheeses on their pizzas.
If you haven't had a pizza with the
cheese added post-bake you haven't
lived. Rather than obliterate a fantastic
high-moisture cheese by exposing it to
prolonged heat, why not add it after the
bake? This works great with fresh fior di
latte, mozzarella di bufala, stracciatella,
and burrata. Those cheeses would turn
your pizza into soup if added pre-bake.
Adding it after allows the cheese to
taste the way it's supposed to taste. The
temperature contrast between the warm,
freshly baked pizza and the cool, refreshing cheese really makes a statement. I've
even seen low-moisture mozzarella added
after the bake, but for a completely different reason. Some late-night slice shops
will add an extra handful of mozzarella
for buck or two, resulting in some buffer
between the customer's mouth and the
hot slice.
On the opposite end of the spectrum,
I'm seeing loads of pizzerias utilizing
burnt cheese as a feature rather than a

1 6 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 9

flaw. I've always opted for slices that
have some unintentionally burnt
cheese along the edge but now pizzerias are giving it to me on purpose!
Caramelized cheese is no longer just
a benchmark of bar pies and Detroitstyle pizzas, now it's a useful tool for
making better pizzas across the spectrum. I saw a genius move at Good
Pie in Las Vegas in which they intentionally caramelize cheese around the
entire edge of their gluten free Detroit
pizza and the result is stunning. Not
only does it mask the otherwise unattractive, it also provides a tasty bonus.
I'm sure someone's already doing it,
but I think it's a good use of this page
to beg you to offer burnt cheese bits as
a topping. Just load a pan with cheese,
bake it, and crush it up on top of my
pizza. Please. It's going to be delicious!
As impressive as post oven cheese
and caramelized cheese edges may

be, neither can match the thrill of a
house-made cheese. I've taken thousands of people to hundreds of pizzerias and nothing beats the look on
their faces when they find out a pizzeria makes their mozzarella in-house.
It's an instant shot of credibility. Most
cheese companies only started selling
their curd within the past 20 years, but
savvy restaurants have caught onto the
benefits. The process requires practice
and often costs more than simply buying product, but the romance is hard
to top.
You already know your customers love
cheese. Try testing out some new applications and broaden the potential of the
ingredients you're already using. ■
SCOTT WIENER is the founder of Scott's
Pizza Tours in New York City and
SliceOutHunger.org.

JOSH KEOWN


http://www.SliceOutHunger.org http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - August 2019

Pizza Today - August 2019
Commentary
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
@ Pizza Today
Conversation
Man on the Street
Tony’s Trending Recipe
Knead to Know
Destinations
Supply Alternatives
Baked Goods
Pizza Toppings: Mortadella
Seasonal Pastas
Artificial Intelligence
In-House Delivery vs. Third Party
Pizza & Pasta Northeast Preview
Pizza Today on the Road: Goremade, Columbus, Oh
Pizza Today on the Road: Park Street Pizza
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Mike’s Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - August 2019 - CT1
Pizza Today - August 2019 - CT2
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Pizza Today - August 2019
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Cover2
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Commentary
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 4
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 5
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 6
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 7
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Contributors
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 9
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 11
Pizza Today - August 2019 - @ Pizza Today
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 13
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Conversation
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 15
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 17
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Tony’s Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 19
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 21
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 22
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 23
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Destinations
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 25
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Supply Alternatives
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 27
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 28
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 29
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 30
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 31
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Baked Goods
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 33
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 34
Pizza Today - August 2019 - CT3
Pizza Today - August 2019 - CT4
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 35
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Pizza Toppings: Mortadella
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 37
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Seasonal Pastas
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 39
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Artificial Intelligence
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 41
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 42
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 43
Pizza Today - August 2019 - In-House Delivery vs. Third Party
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 45
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 46
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 47
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Pizza & Pasta Northeast Preview
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 49
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 50
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 51
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Pizza Today on the Road: Goremade, Columbus, Oh
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 53
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 54
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 55
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Pizza Today on the Road: Park Street Pizza
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 57
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 58
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 59
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 60
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 61
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 62
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 63
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 65
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 67
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 68
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 69
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 70
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 71
Pizza Today - August 2019 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 73
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 74
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 75
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 76
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 77
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 78
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 79
Pizza Today - August 2019 - 80
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Mike’s Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Cover3
Pizza Today - August 2019 - Cover4
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