Pizza Today - October 2019 - 35

Dollops add gusto to great pizzas
By Denise Greer Photo Josh Keown

W

hile I can't remember
the first time I ate a
pizza with dollops
of any cheese, I do
remember the first one that wowed me.
It was Tony Gemignani's New Yorker at
Pizza Rock in Sacramento I traveled to
my first year at Pizza Today. The dollops of
ricotta made that pie go from interesting to
amazing for me.
Ricotta is classic dollop. Pre- or postbake, the soft, creamy and somewhat sweet
ricotta is versatile and punctuates the flavor
of salty meat pizza or an earthy mushroom
pie.
Since that ricotta dollop moment, I've
encountered a variety of cheeses dolloped
on countless specialty pies. The one
commonality is that there are no rules.
Pre- or post-bake is partial to the pizzeria
and pizza maker. Dollops can be as small
as a dime or as large as a half-dollar. They
can go with rustic application by hand
or by spoon. If you want uniformity, try
piping the dollop. It leaves less mess on
the makeline. You can even use different
shaped tips for the various dollops you use.
Some cheeses will require thinning with
cream to create optimal consistency for
piping.
Let's look at other cheeses that can put
the exclamation mark on your specialty
pizzas.
* GOAT CHEESE. Chévre has a distinctively tart flavor. Typically, its texture is soft
and creamy and can be applied pre- and
post-bake. Delicious combinations include
prosciutto and arugula or caramelized
onion and mushroom.
* MASCARPONE. Technically considered
a curdled cream, the soft, delicate
mascarpone is buttery rich. It has a light
and sweet flavor and its smooth texture
makes mascarpone a perfect post-bake
dollop. Try a mascarpone finish on a pizza
with roasted tomatoes, olives and pancetta
or a dessert pie with figs and honey.
* CREAM CHEESE. While a bit unorthodox for traditionalists, the tangy, soft and
sweet cheese is gaining popularity and

shares similarities with mascarpone. Cream
cheese atop a jalapeño and bacon or pepperoni pizza is a winner. Artichokes and
spinach also complement cream cheese
well.
WHIP IT GOOD

Whipping cheese can allow you to
dollop a cheese that doesn't have the exact
consistency for the application. There are
several ways to whip various cheeses into
shape.
* FETA. This is a technique similar to
a Greek Tyrosalata recipe where Greek
yogurt, garlic, olive oil and herbs are
pulsed in a food processor to a smooth
consistency. Try a chicken and pesto pizza
finished with a whipped feta.
* BLEU CHEESE. Whipping up bleu
cheese is as easy as blending in cream
cheese or heavy whipping cream. Blow
customers' minds with this addition to a
buffalo chicken pizza.
* PARMESAN. Change the profile
of Parmesan by blending it with heavy
whipping cream. Thicken it up with
another cheese like fontina. Finish a fourcheese pizza with a whipped Parmesan for
extra zip.
* OTHER STRONGER CHEESES.

Experiment with your favorite cheeses to
create a whipped cheese that is uniquely
yours.
Flavors can be infused during whipping
to give the cheese a one-of-a-kind flavor.
Some enhancements include adding honey
and lemon; garlic, Parmesan and parsley;
lemon and herbs (thyme, rosemary, fennel
or dill); or pumpkin and maple syrup.
BEYOND CHEESE

Test other dollop variations that are still
in the dairy family, like crème fraiche, Fromage blanc, crema, sour cream or yogurt.
Since the liquid content is so high in these
options, they perform better as post-bake
pizza toppings.
"Yogurt cheese" is made from Greek
yogurt and salt strained through a cheese
cloth, that is refrigerated to allow to drain.

Yogurt cheese can be a great addition to a
Mediterranean pizza or Greek-style pizza.
Dollops don't always come in the form
of dairy products. Red sauce, guacamole,
pesto, fruit jam, apple butter, aioli, garlic,
lardo and hazelnut spread can all be dolloped on a fresh pizza.
If you have a plant-based following,
there are even vegan dollop options,
including whipped coconut milk, cashew
cream or aquafaba.
Just in time for autumn, add your flair to
this fall pizza:

Autumn Whip
1 14-ounce doughball
3/4 cup chopped Applewood smoked
bacon
3/4 cup pureed pumpkin, seasoned with
salt, pepper and allspice
3/4 cup smoked mozzarella
3 tablespoons shaved Parmesan
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan
Fresh sage
2 tablespoons dark maple syrup
2 cups full fat plain Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
Extra virgin olive oil
Add Greek yogurt to cheese clothes.
Place cheese cloth into colander over a
bowl to discard liquid and refrigerate
overnight. Blend together ¼ cup pumpkin, maple syrup, salt, heavy whipping
cream and thickened yogurt. Load piping
bag with mixture and refrigerate. Stretch
doughball to desired size. Drizzle and
spread olive oil over dough. Distribute
smoked mozzarella evenly. Add remaining pumpkin in dollops. Crumble bacon
over pizza. Add pinch of salt. Bake until
golden brown. Remove yogurt blend
from refrigerator. Take the pizza out of
the oven and pipe dollops of yogurt mix
around pizza. Finish with shaved Parmesan, fresh sage and drizzle of maple
syrup. n
DENISE GREER is

Pizza Today.

Executive Editor at

O C T O B E R 2 0 1 9 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / 3 5


http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - October 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - October 2019

Pizza Today - October 2019
Commentary
Contributors
Expo Spotlight
Meet The Makers
Conversation
Man On The Street
Tony’s Trending Recipe
Knead To Know
Destinations
Background Music
Topping Trends
Dollops
Waste Management
Promoting Gift Cards
Holding Events
Independent Pizzeria Of The Year: Dante, Omaha, Ne
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Reader’s Resource
Mike’s Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - October 2019 - CT1
Pizza Today - October 2019 - CT2
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Pizza Today - October 2019
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Cover2
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Commentary
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 4
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 5
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 6
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 7
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Contributors
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 9
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 11
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Meet The Makers
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 13
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Conversation
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 15
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Man On The Street
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 17
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Tony’s Trending Recipe
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 19
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Knead To Know
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 21
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 22
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 23
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Destinations
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 25
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Background Music
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 27
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 28
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 29
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Topping Trends
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 31
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 32
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 33
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Dollops
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 35
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Waste Management
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 37
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 38
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 39
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Promoting Gift Cards
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 41
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 42
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 43
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Holding Events
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 45
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 46
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 47
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Independent Pizzeria Of The Year: Dante, Omaha, Ne
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 49
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 50
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 51
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 52
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 53
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 54
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 55
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 57
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 59
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 60
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 61
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 62
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 63
Pizza Today - October 2019 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 65
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 66
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 67
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 68
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 69
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 70
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 71
Pizza Today - October 2019 - 72
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Reader’s Resource
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Mike’s Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Cover3
Pizza Today - October 2019 - Cover4
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