Pizza Today - March 2021 - 47

KITCHEN

P

epperoni has one
implementation on pizza.
Pepperoni goes on top, before
the bake like any other typical topping.
The size and taste of the pepperonis
will vary, but there aren't multiple
species of pepperoni. Mushrooms, by
contrast, have so many variables that
are incalculably different. There are over
10,000 species of mushrooms, 12 of
which are incredibly popular for pizza.
It's essential to know how they're used
most often and why. Along with that,
here are some new approaches with
mushrooms that you can incorporate
into your pizzeria today.
Growing up in both New York and
California, I saw the stark difference in
mushrooms on pizza from both coasts.
The tri-state area's East Coast kitchens
seemed to be closet-sized and only
carried canned mushrooms. When I
moved to the Bay Area, I noticed a much
different mushroom approach to pizza.
California chains used fresh mushrooms
that were dry and typically unseasoned.
This is one in a long line of differences
between these two different areas and
their pizza approach in the mid-'90s.
I didn't know why New York pizzerias
used the canned mushroom. Was it the
space thing? Was it because the other
guy was using it? Was it because they
genuinely liked it? Contrast that with
the fresh mushrooms, which appeared as
overly dry. This approach wasn't ideal for
maximizing flavor but did look better in
a photo.
At the time, I didn't think there
was a right or wrong. After owning a
pizzeria for as long as I have, I've seen
every iteration of mushrooms on pizza.
I know that no one way is wrong or
right, but that there's so much more that
can be done with mushrooms. It's truly
a dark horse in the lineup when you
consider all the potential iterations and
combinations mushrooms provide.
Pre-marinated. By leaving
mushrooms to soak in oil or dressing,
you allow them to absorb flavor to go
from merely a texture topping to a
means of conveying flavor. By placing
mushrooms in a marinade, you control
the uniqueness. You can go to town
on how much seasoning you give to

it to make it your own. The best part
of this approach is using these same
mushrooms on a Caprese appetizer to
cross utilize your mushrooms.
Sautéed. By sautéing mushrooms,
either making it to order or in advance,
it lets the mushroom get more flavor
before they ever get to your pizza. You
can also cook off a lot of the water that
might make your pizza soggy. You can
also sauté the marinated mushroom or
pre-sauté and then marinate.

Under or Over
Some people love the look of a flat
white mushroom on the top of their
pizza, and that's fine. That's your call
to make. If you want to protect the
mushroom's bake, putting it under the
cheese is always an option.
Whether they're pre-marinated,
pre-baked or under the cheese, there
are so many different approaches to
mushrooms. Even when it's the same
mushroom, let alone the several varietals
of mushroom available.
At Andolini's, we make a wild
mushroom pizza with several
mushrooms of whatever is seasonally
available. We also bake a classic sliced
button mushroom and a sauteed
portobello mushroom. On your straightup mushroom, pre-marinating in olive
oil with garlic or even lemon juice can
help preserve or enhance the flavor.

Let's look at three options:
Portabellos. I love portobello
mushrooms. I love their ability to give
a meaty vibe to a non-meat pizza. It
provides a feeling of protein without
protein. It also means you can sell a
vegan pizza that has some character to
it. When I first started, we would cook
them to order, but I realized that doing
a pre-sauté on them makes us more
prepared for anything that could come
at us. Over time, I've learned to have the
kitchen ready for a 50 to 100 pizza order
at any second. When you prepare for
that volume level to occur sporadically,
you create an inverse to Murphy's law.
If it can happen, it will, and you'll be set
up for a large order, which will, in turn,
become several large orders.
For portabellos, we remove the gills

with a spoon before the sauté. For classic
button mushrooms, slicing them thinner
helps reduce the amount of water that
will occur when you bake them. But
again, pre-baking a mushroom or presauteing can get rid of excess water that
could make for a soggy pizza. Or you
could cook them as is and then drain
your pizza, but it's not ideal.
Truﬄes. Truffles on a pizza. If
there's one thing inherent about a truffle
is that it equals instant classy. It's an
expensive item that knows it's expensive
and can garner more money per pizza.
If that's the restaurant style you are
marketing, truffles are a great choice to
instantly set you and your menu apart.
Adding truffle oil as well will take the
flavor over the top and drive the truffle
point home.
Shitake. Shitake mushrooms are
my favorite. I love how they don't look
the same, and when sautéed and used
as a topping, they look artful and taste
amazing. I prefer to sauté them in butter
and bake with fresh mozzarella on
top. Bear in mind, using butter for the
sauté won't land with health-conscious
customers and immediately negates it
from being vegan.
Regardless of what mushroom
choice you have, know why you do it
and then try it several different ways
in a controlled test to determine what
you like the most. When you try
each mushroom, each particular way,
you allow yourself the knowledge of
why you made your choice, and that
empowers you to sell it better. What
you like the most will determine what
you're able to be passionate about and
sell the most. Mushrooms are such an
adaptable topping that to only have
one mushroom in your pizzeria shortsighted. Choosing one is holding back
from the menu possibilities mushrooms
afford you; really lean in and make the
menu say portobello and cremini instead
of just one listing of " mushroom. "
Actions like this instantly make your
menu more upscale and more viable in
the competitive market.
MIKE BAUSCH is the owner of
Andolini's Pizzeria in Tulsa, Oklahoma.
Pizza Today - March 2021

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