Rural Missouri - October 2010 - (Page 18)

O U T by Jim McCarty O F T H E W A Y E A T S hef Tim Grandinetti starts his day a little differently than most cooks. He walks out the back door of Clarksville Station Restaurant at Overlook Farm to the farmers market in the restaurant’s parking lot. “Our farm stand, it’s 20 feet from my back door,” he says. “So in the morning, I go out and say, ‘Good morning, Mr. Bankhead’ — he’s our gentleman farmer — ‘What do you have today?’” Whatever the harvest, Tim will turn it into something delicious in the kitchen at this unusual restaurant, located just south of Clarksville. “I come back to the kitchen and I start to formulate today’s specials based on what’s been picked a half-hour ago,” Tim says. “It doesn’t get any better than this. Fresh, fresh, fresh.” Tim’s creations follow the philosophy put into place by owner Nathalie Pettus at the sustainable farm, which includes 200 acres of fruit trees, berry vines, gardens and two historic inns. The goal is to work with nature, serving dishes that fit with the season and honor the plant or animal from which they are made. In carrying out this mission, Tim has developed special relationships with all of his suppliers. For example, when he orders seafood, he will know who caught the fish, where it was caught and the name of the boat that hauled it in. Tim’s chicken is raised naturally by local Amish farmers. Most of his pork comes from Newman Farms in southwest Missouri, which raises only heritage Berkshire hogs. While others might buy only chicken breasts, Tim celebrates the flavors that come from dark cuts of meat. He pushes the boundaries by servExecutive Chef Tim Grandinetti, shown here with several of his most popular dishes, brings Overlook Farm’s ing grilled venison hearts or dishes from forgotvision of serving locally grown foods to a fine dining establishment called Clarksville Station. ten root crops such as parsnips and rutabagas. richer cuts of meat served in slow-cooked sauces macaroni and cheese and fiery chowchow relish, “It’s easy just to buy boneless chicken breasts,” stand out. By spring, Tim offers baby beets or the made from produce grown on the farm and preTim says. “I think that is a sin. Buy the whole first tender spring radishes. Summer means berserved in the kitchen. bird. Enjoy it, break it down and use the bones ries and heritage tomatoes grown on the farm. Pumpkin and fennel bisque is offered in the for a great stock. We use every part.” Tim’s appetizers really stand out. One of the fall, along with a salad no doubt using up the last Specials tend toward these adventurous best is the $12 duck flatbread, nearly a meal in of the garden greens. In winter, root crops and delights, while the seasonal menus offer more itself. He shapes pizza dough into an oblong flatsubdued treats. The bread, which is grilled, then topped with duck autumn menu offers confit, carmelized onions, rosemary potatoes, six main course selecClarksville Station arugula, homemade ricotta cheese and pine nuts. tions ranging from BBQ If the flatbread got your attention, you can ribs and chopped pork • Specialties: Dishes made from order one of 22 different pizzas cooked on the shoulder to buttermilk Clarksville ingredients grown at local farms or on outdoor wood-fired oven. fried chicken and rainsite. Menu changes but includes bison Two of Tim’s pizzas show his love of contrasts. bow trout from Rockpatty melt, Rockbridge Ranch trout and One is a red-sauce pesto chicken pizza topped bridge Trout Ranch. Amish-raised buttermilk fried chicken. with sun-dried tomatoes, toasted pine nuts, Order a steak and kalamata olives and crumbled feta cheese. The you won’t get just a other is a truffle-shrimp pizza with a white sauce piece of meat. Tim’s Price: Sandwiches from $8 to $13; dintopped with shrimp, mushrooms, spinach and $24 N.Y. strip is charner entrées from $15 to $24. Cash, checks and all major homemade ricotta cheese. broiled, placed on a bed credit cards accepted. The fall lunch menu includes a bison patty of peperonata rustica melt ($13) that comes from Sayersbrook Farm in and served with a salad Details: Open daily except Christmas. Hours: Breakfast Potosi and turkey bacon chevre panini ($9). made from arugula and served Saturday and Sunday only beginning at 8 a.m. Lunch For dessert, Tim recommends the Grand Finasweet red onions. Topstarts at 11:30 a.m. on weekends, 11 a.m. weekdays, dinner le, an onslaught of sweets which costs $19. “We ping the steak is a duck at 5 p.m. Closes 8 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, 9 p.m. just keep sending it out until you cry uncle. Small egg fried sunny side up. Thursday and 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Smoking allowed pieces, large pieces, little tastes.” Something as outside only. Seats 160. Reservations encouraged. Guests are invited to eat outdoors or linger simple as fried chicken around a bonfire after dark. They can walk off becomes a minimalist dessert by hiking the hill behind the restaurant work of art under Tim’s Directions: Located at 901 S. Highway 79 in Clarksville. for an impressive view of the Mississippi River. direction. At Clarksville “We want you to love it and then miss it,” Station, the classic dish Contact: 573-242-3838; Tim says. “I don’t think there’s anything else like costs $17 and is served this.” with “ooey-gooey” C Clarksville Station Overlook Farm’s eatery offers food from farm to fork 18 RURAL MISSOURI

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Rural Missouri - October 2010

Rural Missouri - October 2010
Good Times on the Berryman
Elk in Missouri?
Mail Bag
Right-of-Way Management
Out of the Way Eats
Live Like a Viking
Two Men and a Cave
Hearth and Home
News Briefs
Paddlin' for a Cure
Get in Touch with Ghosts
Around Missouri

Rural Missouri - October 2010