Rural Missouri - December 2010 - (Page 14)

O U T by Kyle Spradley O F T H E W A Y E A T S s Roswitha Hartline tidies up her barn, the phone rings. “Hallo, Schnitzelbank,” says Roswitha, who is more often called Rose by friends. A slight pause comes as the caller asks a question. Rose continues, “Yes, but you don’t have to eat with the horses.” For more than 20 years, Rose trained horses, boarded them and gave riding lessons in her barn north of Webb City. What was once a place for horses and saddles, however, now is a haven for fresh schnitzel and bratwurst. After years of traveling to horse shows and enduring the rigors of managing a horse stable, Rose decided to follow her true passion: cooking. Using recipes she learned from her grandmother while growing up in western Germany, Roswitha has turned her restaurant into a destination for authentic Bavarian-style food. “People seem a little confused when they call or drive up,” says Rose. “They are not sure what to think of when they see just a barn. Then they try my schnitzel, and it is all good.” Rose’s different varieties of schnitzel are what have kept the small restaurant just off of Highway 43, north of Joplin, packed on the weekends for more than a decade. She hand breads the pork loins in her own mixture of spices, giving each schnitzel entrée its own unique flavor. Her top seller, the jäger schnitzel, is topped with a sauce of sautéed fresh mushrooms, garlic When owner and head cook Roswitha “Rose” Hartline converted her hay shed into an authentic German resand white wine. The wiener schnitzel is lightly taurant 11 years ago, she couldn’t have imagined the following her dishes would have. Today, she serves up breaded with Hungarian sweet paprika, and the German classics such as jäger schnitzel, rinder rouladen, frickadellen and bratwurst. rahmen schnitzel is topped with a lemon sour cream sauce. sphere to sit back and enjoy themselves. or glass of German wine, try a slice of German Rose also brings some dishes from Germany “My place is full of gemütlichkeit, which chocolate cake or apple strudel. that are hard to find in American cookbooks. translated means a warm and spirited atmo“I bake my German chocolate cake different “People can’t get enough of my rinder rouladsphere,” says Rose. “I do toasts, sing and joke than the Americans,” Rose says. “Mine is baked en,” she says. “You don’t find this dish in many with the customers. I don’t want you to just rush with buttermilk, and I take out the coconut to cookbooks anymore because it takes so many out of here, I want you to have an experience.” give it a more smooth taste.” steps to make.” Rose is always amazed how many regulars she Rose believes in not only having good food Rose takes the rolled sirloin tip steak and adds has and how busy the place gets, given that it is but also in giving the customers a reason to come her mixture of spices, then browns the meat in a open only on Friday and Saturday nights. back by providing a warm and welcoming atmoskillet. She skims off all the fat and thickens the David Lomshek from nearby Pittsjuices. The steak is then baked with a burg, Kan., frequently visits, bringing shot of red wine. The dish goes great Roswitha’s Schnitzelbank with him exchange students from with rotkraut — red cabbage simPittsburg State University where he mered in cloves, onions, apples, bay is an engineering professor. Not only leaves and vinegar. Specialties: Authentic German does he enjoy treating the students For those with a palate for spicier food including schnitzel, rinder routo food from their native land, but foods, try the Hungarian beef tips. laden and bratwurst. Signature sides since he is of Slovenian descent, he The braised sirloin tips are simmered include kartoffelsalat and rotkraut. • Webb City also enjoys the food himself. He says in their own juices and spiced with a Desserts include German chocolate it is the closest he can get to Europe touch of red pepper flakes. cake and homemade apple strudel. without hopping on a flight. All of the entrées are served with a “This place makes me feel a little brötchen, a German dinner roll. Side Price: Entrées from $8 to $10; Cash and checks accepted. bit better about being away from dishes, included with some entrées, my country,” says Patrick Feurich, cost a little extra but can’t be missed. Details: Open on Friday and Saturday from 5 to 9:30 p.m. an exchange student from Dresden, Try the kartoffelsalat, a warm Germany. “We were a bit surprised to German potato salad with bacon Seats 24 in dining room with additional seasonal seating find good food in a barn, but this is and a sweet finish from a gourmet in the barn. Smoking is allowed outside only. Reservations just like food from back home.” vinaigrette dressing. Rose also cooks encouraged. Available any weekday for reserved parties. Although the restaurant is in a spaetzle, small plump egg noodles barn, Rose keeps the kitchen and sautéed in butter. Sauerkraut and rotDirections: Located at 12167 Highway 43 near Webb City, seating areas spotless, and sometimes kraut also are available. 13 miles north of Interstate 44. A sign on the west side marks she can’t help sneaking in a joke to Of course, any German restaurant the entrance to the property with the restaurant in a large, make her customers laugh. wouldn’t be complete without bratred and white barn. “When they ask where the restwurst. Rose’s ground veal and pork room is, I tell them it is the second brats are cooked and served with karstall on the left,” says Rose with a toffelsalat and sauerkraut. Contact: 417-642-5343 smile. “You should see their faces.” After finishing off a Bavarian beer A Roswitha's Schnitzelbank Authentic German specialties served in a horse barn 14 RURAL MISSOURI

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Rural Missouri - December 2010

Rural Missouri - December 2010
Lester Dent
The Owl Innkeepers
Mail Bag
Out of the Way Eats
Best of Rural Missouri
Hearth and Home
News Briefs
Just Claus
Too Good to Be True?
Around Missouri

Rural Missouri - December 2010