Rural Missouri - June 2012 - (Page 12)

O U T O F T H E W A Y E A T S W by Jason Jenkins ith a name like Randy’s Roadkill BBQ & Grill, there’s plenty of reason to speculate about what exactly is inside the smoker. If you ask, owner Randy Hrovat will jokingly tell you it isn’t fast food — it’s food that wasn’t fast enough. Armed with a catchy name, a signature dry rub and a unique smoking method, Randy has attracted both curious travelers off the interstate and Rolla-area residents who have come to know his smoked meats and grilled entrées as some of the best around. The Intercounty Electric Cooperative member spent 25 years in a sales and marketing career but fell victim to a series of corporate layoffs. With the support of his wife, Kathy, he threw himself into a new venture — barbecue. Randy started off with a 28-foot-long trailer that resembled a log cabin. He’d cater private parties, weddings and other funcJoin editor Jason Jenkins tions. When he on his visit to Randy’s in wasn’t needed the online edition at somewhere else, he’d set up in the parking lot of a local grocery store and tempt shoppers with his smoked selections. “I did that for six-plus years and developed quite a following,” he says. “My patrons kept Randy Hrovat, right, poses outside his barbecue restaurant with his wife, Kathy, and youngest son, Sam. After saying, ‘You ought to build a restaurant,’ so in operating from a trailer for more than six years, he opened the permanent location on the family’s farm in 2009. 2008, we started building.” Smoked turkey and chicken, each coated with it absorb for 12 hours, then he smokes the racks Randy and Kathy decided to build on a an applewood smoke rub, are available on Friday for four hours. As is the case with all of Randy’s corner of their rural property 3.5 miles north of and Saturday. Another Saturday night crowdbarbecued meats, the ribs are served “dry.” He Rolla. An 18-acre field and 1-acre pond provided pleaser is Randy’s 14- to 16-ounce pork steaks. offers his homemade sauce at the table, but the a picturesque setting in the Ozark hills for their For those who aren’t barbecue fans, try the ribs are so flavorful they don’t need it. new destination restaurant with hunting lodge brown-sugar-glazed pork chop, orange chicken Other barbecue staples such as pulled pork, décor. They opened the doors in September 2009. chipotle sandwich, barbecued or spicy chicken brisket and sausage also can be found on the “A lot of people have gimmicks,” Randy says, wings, or a prime rib or Angus burger. For somemenu. Randy actually hand pulls his pulled pork referring to food challenges and other promothing fun, order an “opossum tail” or an “armato remove the fat and gristle often left by others. tions. “I don’t want a gimmick. I want to be here dillo tail,” which are a deep-fried, bacon-wrapped He offers brisket three ways: shredded, sliced and forever, so I give you quality food. Gimmicks hot dogs or Cajun sausages. cubed. Try any of these on a two- or three-meat come and go; quality stays forever.” Finish off your meal with one of Kathy’s combo plate served with bread and two sides. Whether smoking beef or pork, Randy begins homemade desserts. Cheesecake with his signature dry rub, a combo is always on the menu, but other of spices he won’t reveal. The meat favorites in the rotation include is bathed in smoke from an unlikely Randy’s Roadkill BBQ & Grill carrot cake, Key lime pie and the source: a combination of white oak decadent dark fudge chocolate cake. and red oak. “It gives the meat a Specialties: ”Roadkill” loaded chips, Early in the summer, try the tripledifferent type of smoke flavor than St. Louis-style ribs, pulled pork, brisket layer strawberry cake garnished hickory or mesquite or apple,” Randy • three ways, brown-sugar-glazed grilled with fresh berries; toward fall, enjoy explains. “It’s a little milder.” Rolla pork chop, loaded baked potato. a slice of fresh apple pie. Begin your meal with what is In June, Randy plans to begin probably the most popular item Price: Appetizers from $2.49 to $8.79; offering smoked prime rib, as well on the menu, the appetizer known sandwiches from $4.50 to $8.25; dinners as two new sausages. He’s also on as “Roadkill.” Resembling loaded the cusp of selling his signature dry nachos, this dish consists of homefrom $8.49 to $21.50. Cash, checks and credit cards accepted. rub, sauces and other items online. made barbecue potato chips topped While Randy and some of his with Randy’s baked beans, cheddar Details: Open Thursday, 5 to 8 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 regulars like to tease first-time cheese and shredded brisket. Unlike a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Seats 44 in the patrons, rest assured you’ll only corn tortillas that get soggy in loaded dining room, 36 in the bar and 34 outside. Smoking permitted find USDA-inspected beef, pork and nachos, the homemade chips stay outside only. Reservations accepted; catering services available. poultry at the roadkill grill, no matcrunchy down to the last bite. ter how many unfortunate critters Another favorite is the loaded Directions: From Interstate 44 Exit 185 in Rolla, travel north you may see on your drive there. baked potato, which receives a simion Highway E through the roundabout and go about 3.5 “I have the ability to cook that lar treatment of baked beans, cheese miles. The restaurant will be on the right. well,” says Randy, with a mischieand the meat of your choice. vous gleam in his eye and a crooked Babyback ribs may be in vogue, smile on his face, “but I better not but Randy offers up St. Louis-style Contact: 573-368-3705 or go down that road.” spare ribs. He applies his dry rub, lets Serving mouthwatering barbecue and a side of humor 12 WWW.RURALMISSOURI.COOP http://WWW.RURALMISSOURI.COOP

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Rural Missouri - June 2012

Rural Missouri - June 2012
Table of Contents
The power of purple
The little town that could
Out of the Way Eats
Missouri snapshots contest
Sustainable forestry
Stocked with adventure
Hearth and Home
Around Missouri

Rural Missouri - June 2012