Rural Missouri - August 2017 - 15

by Jim McCarty | jmccarty@ruralmissouri.coop

for that has to do with cycling vegetable oil in the fryers."
An order includes six legs, breaded with a cornmeal-dill batter. Angela says
hen partners Angela Schultz and Bill "Grizz" Adams purchased those who have never sampled these delicacies can expect them to taste like
a defunct roadhouse in Yarrow, their goal was to keep the atmo- dark chicken meat. "They try them for the first time, and people who like them
sphere while creating a nice dining experience for guests. Mission come back just to eat them. Every Thursday and Sunday there are people here
specifically for the frog legs."
accomplished.
Another locally sourced item is the chopped steak, made from "Howe Cow"
They gutted the building, remodeled it using recycled materials and added
little touches that recall the heritage of the tiny village that was once a stop on beef. This popular item is 10 ounces and made only from steak cuts. It's served
the St. Louis-Iowa Railroad, such as yarrow plants and paintings of the town's with your choice of grilled mushrooms, onions or green peppers.
Sandwiches typically come with Fort Chariton's handmade fries. "I don't
depot and mill. It's not easy to find, but once you do you are likely to return
open a bag of fries, ever," Angela says, adding the restaurant will go through
often to this place in the country.
Fort Chariton, which is served by Tri-County Electric Cooperative, is a din- eight to 10 boxes of potatoes every week.
Other side options - which also can be ordered as appetizers - include
ing destination that is popular with motorcycle riders who enjoy the twisty area
roads and campers who park their trailers and RVs in the nearby campground sweet potato fries, also hand cut, Reuben or pepperoni eggrolls and the housethat features electricity, water and sewer hookups. It's not unusual for kayak- made onion rings.
The amazing rings start as a jumbo white onion. They are blanched and
ers to paddle the Chariton River to enjoy the food and libations at the fully
refrigerated until an order is placed. Then, they are breaded with the Boulevard
stocked bar.
"I didn't want to change the palate of what people in rural Missouri enjoy, Beer batter, fried and served with ketchup or homemade ranch dressing.
The same beer batter is used to bread Jumbo Shrimp. This entree is served
and that is a good breaded tenderloin, a good hamburger and a good steak,"
Angela says. "So to achieve that I just had to improve on that. So nothing comes with a baked potato and side salad.
For a lighter side, try the Fort Chariton Coleslaw, which features kitchen
in a frozen, prebreaded form. Everything comes in fresh."
The trend at eateries these days is to source local foods. Angela does that, manager/chef Joe Belcher's recipe. The slaw is tangy, with both mayonnaise
and vinegar flavoring it.
but takes it a step further: She actually
Light eaters also can get a Fort Chariknows the people who raise her beef, and
ton salad, with a blend of green leaf
counts them as customers in the restauromaine and iceberg lettuce, chicken,
rant located 11 miles south of Kirksville.
bacon, hard-boiled eggs, red onion,
"It's coming from John and Melissa
tomato, Swiss cheese and carrots. "You
Howe," Angela says of her "Howe Cow"
get the whole garden," Angela says.
beef suppliers. "They have a farm in
There's a vegetarian option too, called
Ethel and another in Elmer, which is
the Garden Sandwich. This one includes
about 15 miles south of here. I have it
grilled onions, peppers and mushrooms
processed at a local USDA processor in
on a bed of lettuce and tomatoes. It's
Green City. There are no frozen patties
served on wheatberry bread with a dill
here."
and cream cheese spread.
The most popular menu item is the
Hand-cut rib-eyes, a meatball sandbreaded tenderloin, which is quite difwich and a nice barbecue pulled pork
ferent from what other locations offer.
and onion sandwich round out the sim"There is a competition on breaded tenple, but delicious, menu.
derloins," Angela says. "It's like who
On Wednesday nights, Burger Night
can get the largest. We wanted a thicker
appeals to the budget of college students
sandwich."
from nearby Truman State and A.T.
The tenderloin marinates for 24 hours.
Still universities. The burgers are fresh,
When a tenderloin order is placed, it is
hand-pattied and seasoned daily.
breaded in a batter made with Kansas
Should you have room for dessert,
City Boulevard Wheat beer, fried and
you can choose from cobblers and white
served on a toasted bun with lettuce,
chocolate blueberry cheesecake, all
tomato and pickle on the side. "It's just
made from scratch. Ask for a scoop of ice
like a breaded pork chop," Angela says.
cream, too. Fort Chariton sources CenNext in order of customer preference
tral Dairy ice cream from Jefferson City.
is the Chicken Philly. Roasted chicken
In keeping with the locally produced
is combined with grilled mushrooms,
theme, you will find beer from Missourionions and green peppers, then slathbased Boulevard, Piney River and Logered with a combination of mozzarella
boat breweries.
and cream cheese and served on a toastVisitors are welcome to linger and
ed hoagie bun. For special orders, you
play cornhole or washers outside, or just
may be able to get a steak Philly made
stroll along the banks of the river while
with trimmings from the hand-cut ribwaiting for the sun to set.
eye steaks.
"I could not serve frozen french fries
In keeping with the tradition of the
and frozen onion rings and get people
establishment which has been around
to come down here in the volume that
for 40 years, Angela kept frog legs on
would make the business sustainthe menu two days a week. "When we
purchased the business that was what Top: Order a Chopped Steak at Fort Chariton and you get just that, an entree able," Angela relates. "We didn't have to
everyone asked us, 'Are you still going to made from "Howe Cow" steak raised on a farm owned by John and Melissa change what they are eating as much as
have frog legs?' They are only served on Howe. Bottom: One staple the locals insisted the restaurant keep on the menu we had to make it better. We said that in
the beginning."
Thursdays and Sundays and the reason is frog legs, which are served on Thursdays and Sundays.

W

Fort Chariton
Specialties: Locally raised rib-eye steaks, breaded pork tenderloin sandwiches, frog legs, Chicken Philly's
and Boulevard Wheat beer-battered onion rings.

Yarrow

Price: Appetizers from $2.75 to $5. Sandwiches from $8.75-$9.50. Entrees $8.50 to $14.
Details: Open Wednesday 4 to 9 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Sunday 11 a.m. to
8 p.m. Cash or credit cards accepted. Free Wi-Fi. Full bar available and open later. Smoking allowed in separate area.
Directions: Located at 26826 Yarrow Trail in Yarrow.
Contact: 660-665-3030 or search for Fort Chariton in Yarrow on Facebook.

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