Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 34

canned vegetables including hot and
spicy asparagus and Ryan's personal
favorite, his grandmother's recipe for
bread-and-butter pickles.
Diners call Dawt Mill at least 24
hours in advance to make a reservation and, with the chefs, go over any
special requests or dietary concerns
for the meal. Ryan tells customers
he won't know the menu until the
day of their reservation, preferring to
look through his garden at Dawt and
farmers markets as well as checking
with local producers to pick the best
of what ingredients are available.
"When we're grocery shopping,
we're not going for something specific," Ryan says. "We're out there
looking for inspiration to see what's
available and what sounds fun."
For salads, Ryan starts with what's
growing in the gardens out in front
of the restaurant: a yellow squash,
tomatoes, cucumbers, basil and
marigold flower petals. On the way
back to the restaurant he veers off
to the woods and picks a few leaves
of wild-growing beefsteak plant, also
known as shiso. The herb, which has
the faint aroma of anise, delivers a
powerhouse flavor, complementing
the basil. On the stove, half the yellow squash is charred with balsamic
dressing in a cast-iron pan. Added to
this are the chopped vegetables and
herbs along with salt-pickled okra
tossed in homemade barbecue salt.
"In flavor combinations you want
to cut sweet with more salt or vinegar," Ryan says. "I like to meld different ingredients and techniques, so we
use a very Ozarks ingredient - the
okra - with the salt-pickling technique, which is an Asian influence."
The entree builds on twin themes
of homegrown vegetables and using
all of the edible parts. Ryan sautes
Arborio rice for his risotto, mixing in
green pepper, red onion and garlic
scapes - the stem - of young garlic
bulbs, which are collected from the
garden during the spring and frozen. "If you catch them soon enough,
they're more tender - it's like a garlic-flavored green bean," Ryan adds.
As the risotto cooks down, he
preps a beef shoulder tender. It's
already cooked to medium rare
A three-course spread at The Chef's Table
is like going home for dinner, complete with
vegetables grown in the garden and canned.

34

RURALMISSOURI.COOP | OCTOBER 2020


http://www.RURALMISSOURI.COOP

Rural Missouri - October 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Rural Missouri - October 2020

Contents
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - Cover1
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - Cover2
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - Contents
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 4
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 5
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 6
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 7
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 8
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 9
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 10
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 11
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Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 18
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Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 21
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Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 31
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Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 33
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 34
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 35
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 36
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 37
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 38
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 39
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 40
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 41
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 42
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 43
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 44
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 45
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 46
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Rural Missouri - October 2020 - 50
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - Cover3
Rural Missouri - October 2020 - Cover4
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