Explore PA Wine Land Book 2021 - 60

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LEMBERGER
(LEHM-ber-ger)
Grown: Across
Pennsylvania
Also known as: Blaufränkisch,
Kékfrankosin or Blauer Limberger
What's in a name? That's certainly
a central question when it comes to
this red-wine grape.
Known in the United States by the
name Lemberger (the varietal was
imported to Germany in the 19th
century from " Lemberg " in presentday
Slovenia), the grape also goes by
Blauer Limberger, Blaufränkisch in
Austria, and Kékfrankos in Hungary.
That Austrian suffix - Fränkisch - has
been associated with the grape since
the Middle Ages, when it was applied to
superior wines in Franconia, the German
wine region that includes northwest
Bavaria, the northeastern reaches of
Baden-Württemberg and southern
Thuringia. The vine has a storied history
and was rumored to be beloved by
both Bismarck and Napoleon.
These days, the varietal is becoming
increasingly popular in Pennsylvania,
where conditions are favorable for
central European grapes bred for
humid summers and cold winters
(see the boom in Riesling and
Grüner Veltliner). That said, the
name thing persists: The preferred
American moniker, Lemberger, has
created some branding troubles
for winemakers - no, the wine has
nothing to do with the infamously
stinky cheese from Limburger.
Fortunately, this versatile wine's
considerable charms do wonders
towards dispelling those associations.
Wines made from Lemberger tend to
fall into two broad categories: strong,
full-bodied styles reminiscent of
60 |PAWINELAND
California Zinfandel, or lighter, softer
wines that recall Pinot Noir. Despite
that divergence, the wines share a
dark blue-red color, aromas of ripe
cherries, blackberries and chocolate,
notable spice, medium tannins, and
high acidity. That high acidity can be
mellowed out via barrel aging, and
it can also be an asset in red blends.
The grape can also be made into
powerful port-style wines.
Pair Lemberger with earthy, savory
favorites such as grilled lamb, roast
beef, or mushroom ravioli - the
acidity and spice will serve as a tasty
foil. The wine is also forceful enough
to be served with briny, funky
cheeses such as feta or Stilton.

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Explore PA Wine Land Book 2021

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