Wine and Spirits - December 2011 - (Page 66)

YEAR’S BEST RIOJA Our blind panels tasted 263 new-release Rioja wines over the past 12 months. Joshua Greene, our critic for the wines of Rioja, rated 61 as exceptional (90+) and 33 as Best Buys. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com. W HI T E 179282 | Conde de Valdemar $ $ | R. López de Heredia $ | R. López de Heredia 1987 Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia Closing in on its 25th birthday, this wine has gone a little insane in the bottle. Drink it just after opening and you’ll think it’s a bit of a reﬁned old lady, rich, toasty and oaky, but starting to fray at the edges, the weave of its light tannins and ﬁrm acidity a little loose. The wine comes back together with several hours of air, however, and gains freshness over the course of a day, transforming into a wild, vivid beauty in its prime, the acidity and tannins merged into a vibrant salted caramel ﬂavor with subtle ﬂoral notes and remarkable elasticity. This is below-the-belt wine, the glory of Rioja from ancient vines on a bend of the Ebro in Haro. Think Global, Santa Barbara, CA 178531 2010 Rioja Inspiracion Valdemar Tempranillo Blanco From a mutation of tempranillo that Valdemar decided to cultivate, this yields scents of apple blossoms, pain grillé and salted caramels. The texture is smooth, with a fatness in the middle that’s cut by searing acidity. That combination of unctuous and edgy would be delicious with roast sea bass. CIV (USA), Sacramento, CA 178532 | R. López de Heredia $ 1991 Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia The gentle touch of this wine is pure Rioja: the feel of silk stockings, or of a rose petal. It smells like an earthen cellar—moist, cool, a delicate essence of cherries preserved, the fruit still intact in a gentle knockout punch. The browning color and mature cigar box notes suggest this is fully mature. A lovely evocation of this great Rioja Alta site in Haro, and a treat with jamon de Jabugo. Think Global, Santa Barbara, CA | R. López de Heredia 1993 Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia Blanco Rich scents of peach nectar and pineapple start oﬀ a touch sherried, then begin to refresh with air. The volume is turned up in the initial aroma, a bit quieter and more delicate as the wine comes to a close. Golden and juicy, this is a lovely aperitif. Think Global, Santa Barbara, CA 177598 $ | Baron de Ley $ 179676 2001 Rioja Crianza Viña Gravonia This grows on viura vines averaging 45 years of age on a south-facing vineyard across the river from the winery. And it smells like Rioja: seashells, sandstone, lime pith and tart white cherries. The bright, saturated ﬂavors tingle with a delicate pinprick of acidity. Is it really possible to buy a ten-year-old wine aged to eﬀortless grace for $30? Think Global, Santa Barbara, CA 179385 2009 Rioja Blanco (Best Buy) Rich lemon curd and almond milk notes balance this wine’s fresh coconut scent of oak. It’s fat in the middle, tightened by acidity, ﬁnishing warm. For croquetas de bacalao. Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY 178695 | Luis Cañas $ | de la Marquesa $ | Marqués de Murrieta $ 2006 Rioja Capellanía A supple Iberian pleasure, this viura gains buttery richness from time in oak. The fruit dominates, bringing litchi and pineapple notes to the ﬁnish while the wine remains completely dry. For a plate of hake cheeks. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Oakland, CA 179130 2000 Rioja Valserrano Gran Reserva A rich, nutty Rioja, this combines the smokiness of oak with a gamey, meaty character. The buttery inﬂuence of malolatic fermentation builds on the wine’s unctuous texture. For roast veal. Classic Wines, Stamford, CT 2004 Rioja Selección del Familia Reserva Selected from vineyards at least 45 years old, this Alavesa wine shows the quality of the vintage in its balance. The tannins are transparent, a scrim of green peppercorn spice that draws you into the raspberry and wild strawberry ﬂavors. Alcohol is present, but it drives the ﬂavors rather than blocking them. This feels round and complete, a heady red to drink now with lamb chops. Henriot, NY 178938 | Marqués de Murrieta $ RED 178017 | Roda $ | Zuazo Gaston $ 2010 Rioja Blanco (Best Buy) More than a year in French oak has lent this wine a cedary scent, yet it hasn’t suppressed the ﬂoral fruit. The spice of the oak melds with cool lime and nectarine freshness, lasting with hints of jasmine. For pulpo a la gallega. Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, NY 179177 66 W I N E & S P I R I T S D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 2009 Rioja Cirsion A wine with the grand cru combination of delicacy and power, this is supercharged Rioja, bristling with energy. The texture is a velvet brocade of ripe grape skin tannins and French oak, the fruit vibrant enough to bounce oﬀ that texture, feeling voluptuous as it continues to juice up the ﬁnish. This is a great vintage of Cirsion, an individual cluster selection from estate vines more than 50 years old. Kobrand, Purchase, NY 179630 2004 Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial A formidable, old-fashioned gran reserva, this has the grace and dynamism of great Rioja, powerful without weight. The tannins are precise, focused on Moorish spice, hinting at crushed black peppercorn and cumin. Long and complex, this needs bottle age to fully develop. It should blossom into a great 2004. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Oakland, CA 178692 | de la Marquesa $ 2005 Rioja Valserrano Graciano The texture of this wine is fantastic, landing some- http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com http://www.luiscanas.com/

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine and Spirits - December 2011

Wine and Spirits - December 2011
Editor’s Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered Luke Sykora on Napa's Latest Vintages; Wine Manga Hits Our Stores
Spirits: Winter's New Must-Haves from Lou Bustamante
Bordeaux on the Down Low
Post-Modern Barolo
Coombsville Rising
Breaking the Mold
Where’s the Beef?
Extreme Values
Tastings Overview
Champagne
American Cabernet & Blends
Barolo & Barbaresco
Rioja
German Riesling
American Wines
Imported Wines
Champagne’s Warming Trend

Wine and Spirits - December 2011