Wine and Spirits - December 2011 - (Page 70)

YEAR’S BEST GERMAN RIESLING Our blind panels tasted 342 new-release German rieslings over the past 12 months. Our critic for Germany, Peter Liem, rated 99 as exceptional (90+) and 39 as Best Buys. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com. MO S E L S A A R RUWER TROCKEN 179887 | Mönchhof $ $ | Joh. Jos. Prüm $ | Lauer 2010 Mosel Ayler Kupp Faß 12 Unterstenbersch Riesling trocken This is impressively balanced, with an unusually round, ripe depth of stone fruit ﬂavors held in taut suspension by the ﬁerce acidity of the vintage. It feels vibrant and sleek, with vivid aroma and length. USA Wine Imports, NY 178025 2010 Mosel Riesling QbA (Best Buy) The ﬂavors of pink grapefruit and lime zest are intertwined with aromas of slate, feeling elegantly lively and taut. There’s more richness on the palate than this initially lets on, obscured for now by the prominent acidity. Rudi Wiest Selections, San Marcos, CA 179613 | Peter Nicolay $ | Dr. Loosen $ 2009 Mosel Urziger Würzgarten Grosses Gewächs Alte Reben Riesling The ripe pear, apple and white peach ﬂavors are infused with intense notes of slate, showing plenty of depth to balance the high acidity. It ﬁnishes with persistent aromas of citrus pith and wet stone. Loosen Bros. USA, Salem, OR 179889 2010 Mosel Riesling QbA (Best Buy) Crisp notes of green apple and lime are fragrant and supple, accented by notes of citrus pith and sweet herbs. It balances its acidity well, ﬁnishing with persistent length and a subtle expression of slate. Vinum Cos, Buﬀalo Grove, IL 179848 2009 Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Fuller in body than the Graacher Himmelreich (recommended above), this is no less reﬁned, showing a silky texture and graceful balance. Its aromas of tangerine, nectarine and jasmine tea are anchored by darkly vivid notes of slate, feeling energetic and intense. (W&S, 4/11) Valckenberg Int’l., Tulsa, OK 179689 | Schloss Lieser $ | Schloss Saarstein $ | Clemens Busch $ 2009 Mosel Marienburg GG Riesling The warm, peachy ﬂavors feel golden and slightly honeyed, although they’re held in a ﬁrm grip by lively acidity. There’s a ﬂinty, spicy minerality under the richness that becomes even more prominent on the long, ample ﬁnish. USA Wine Imports, NY 2010 Mosel Riesling QbA (Best Buy) The ﬂoral apple, tangerine and lime ﬂavors are juicy and succulent, enlivened by brisk acidity. It’s lively and inviting, expressive of this cool sector of the Saar. Valckenberg Int’l., Tulsa, OK 2010 Mosel Riesling Kabinett This thrives on an impeccable sense of balance, its cool clementine, strawberry and kumquat ﬂavors intertwined with a dusty, saline minerality. It’s lively and tense, racing towards a long, slatedriven ﬁnish with reﬁnement and ﬁnesse. Rudi Wiest Selections, San Marcos, CA 179731 | Egon Müller $ FEINHERB 179598 | Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler $ 2010 Mosel Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Delicately reﬁned and full of subtly complex slate aromas, this is classic Scharzhofberger in its sleek and elegant shape. Its acidity is brisk yet balanced, sculpting the citrusy ﬂavors in a sophisticated fashion. Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY 179068 | Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt $ 2009 Mosel Kaseler Nies’chen Grosses Gewächs Riesling This shows ripeness and depth while preserving a delicate Saar character, its tense, lively ﬂavors of mandarin orange, apple and lemon zest underlined by softly smoky slate notes. (W&S, 4/11) Valckenberg Int’l., Tulsa, OK 2010 Mosel Riesling Feinherb (Best Buy) The pithy citrus ﬂavors show a silky texture and subtle weight that counters the brisk, pointed acidity. Pair this with something slightly oily, like smoked ﬁsh. Winesellers, Niles, IL | C. von Schubert $ KABINETT 179881 | Joh. Jos. Prüm $ 2010 Mosel Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett While this is still wrapped up in its notes of native yeast fermentation, it already shows a silky elegance, its citrus and stone fruit ﬂavors feeling long, graceful and lithe. Another stunning release from an estate in top form. Valckenberg Int’l., Tulsa, OK 179890 QBA 179938 | Dr. Fischer $ 2010 Mosel Ockfener Bockstein Riesling QbA (Best Buy) This has a lovely balance, its typically Saar-like raciness brisk without being aggressive. The ripe, silky citrus and stone-fruit ﬂavors ﬁnish with taut, tense length. Winesellers, Niles, IL 179685 70 W I N E & S P I R I T S D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 2009 Mosel Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett While still youthful and angular, this demonstrates subtle elegance and ﬁnesse in its white peach and lemon-lime ﬂavors underlined by fragrant, stony minerality. It ﬁnishes with detailed, crystalline aromas, persisting with harmony and length. (W&S, 4/11) Valckenberg Int’l., Tulsa, OK | Später-Veit $ 2010 Mosel Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett (Best Buy) This is an outstanding expression of the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen site, contrasting full, broad white peach and tangerine ﬂavors with the delicacy of Kabinett. It’s pinned down by lively acidity and ﬂinty, smoky notes of slate, demonstrating terriﬁc balance and ﬁnesse. USA Wine Imports, NY http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine and Spirits - December 2011

Wine and Spirits - December 2011
Editor’s Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered Luke Sykora on Napa's Latest Vintages; Wine Manga Hits Our Stores
Spirits: Winter's New Must-Haves from Lou Bustamante
Bordeaux on the Down Low
Post-Modern Barolo
Coombsville Rising
Breaking the Mold
Where’s the Beef?
Extreme Values
Tastings Overview
Champagne
American Cabernet & Blends
Barolo & Barbaresco
Rioja
German Riesling
American Wines
Imported Wines
Champagne’s Warming Trend

Wine and Spirits - December 2011