Wine & Spirits - April 2012 - (Page 1)

editor’s note noble blues Several years ago, when I received an invitation to a blaufränkisch tasting at Gramercy Tavern, my brain took a moment to process it. Lemberger…David Schildknecht…Roland Velich…Dorli Muhr. I knew and respected the last three, but had no idea what they were doing stamping the blunt, peppery blue juice of the grape with their reputations. Especially Schildknecht. He had in the past proposed a story on blaufränkisch, which seemed too limited a subject for in-depth research. After the tasting, I began to come around. As it turns out, blaufränkisch is a grape of lost nobility, capable of clearly representing its terroir when given the right site and treated with care. Schildknecht recognized this early on, as a denizen of Austrian cellars and as the precise taster that he is—you’d have to look to the über-geeks and their algorithms at Google or Facebook to find a parallel to the way his brain connects wine to site. I’m excited to present this story with our annual Restaurant Poll, a barometer of the shifting American tastes in wine, measuring the boundaries of our comfort zone and the frequency with which we leave it. As wines like this classic David Schildknecht from the Austro-Hungarian Empire gain their footing in the 21st Century, we are increasingly open to travel from our comfort zone to more esoteric lands. April is an issue devoted to sommelier darlings like blaufränkisch and to the wines diners relax with—including pinot noir, which, only a moment ago in wine time, was a bridge too far. Now, it’s expanding into the nether regions of the Anderson Valley’s coastal hills, as chronicled by Talia Baiocchi in her first feature story for W&S. Somewhere, buried in the poll data, is the next great wine we may all adopt as our own. One last bit of esoterica: With Easter and Passover approaching, Howard G. Goldberg has uncovered a revisionist history of the events chronicled in Exodus, this one short and required reading for anyone invited to sit through a seder this spring. A bright young upstart from down under. Australia’s oldest family owned winery has a new take on Vermentino. Yalumba Y Series Vermentino 2011 has lovely floral aromas and is full of citrus flavours. Crisp and clean on the finish, it is a wonderfully refreshing wine. And just like the Aussies who make it, this summery wine is bright, fresh and cheeky, making it a beautiful alternative to its fuller-bodied European cousins. It’s sure to be a big hit with white wine drinkers, so stock up now. For further details on Y Series Vermentino and other Yalumba wines, visit Joshua Greene kwp!

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2012

Wine & Spirits - April 2012
Editor's Note
Fined & Filtered: Patrick Comiskey on pairing wine with molecular gastronomy
Extreme Values
Spirits: Lou Bustamante on cocktail bitters
Wine Superheros
Port without Serra
The Class of ’72
Brightliners in the Deep End
The Restoration of Austria’s Noble Red
New & Notable New York City Restaurants
23rd Annual Restaurant Poll
Tastings Overview
American Pinot Noir
Austrian Wines
White Burgundy
Loire Wines
Portugal Reds
Tuscan Wines
American Wines
Imported Wines
Lost Commandments Howard G. Goldberg rewrites Exodus

Wine & Spirits - April 2012